The Lucy's Dog House Blog

Remember that dog who just knew you didn't want her piddling in the house? Some dogs just need a slight sense of disapproval from you, and they virtually housebreak themselves.

But you don’t have one of those dogs…or you wouldn’t be reading this!

So how do we house train the dog who just doesn’t seem to get it? Believe it or not, it’s simple.

I have two key words for you:

Confine and Observe.

While there is a great deal to know about food and water scheduling, timing can vary from dog to dog. So we’ll just concentrate here on the main concept which is to confine your dog to an appropriately sized crate when you cannot observe her.

A properly sized crate is large enough for your dog to stand up and turn around, but hardly bigger than that. If you have a puppy in a large crate, she’ll think she’s got a bedroom with a bathroom built in. She’ll wee in one corner and sleep in the other.

The correctly sized crate consists of bedroom only with no “bathroom.” So if your crate is too large, go to the pet store and purchase a crate divider so you can temporarily reduce the accessible area.

Fido should be in her crate unless you can observe her 100%. This means that when the dog is loose, she has your undivided attention. Consider attaching a 6 foot light cord to the collar so you can more easily locate the dog, and prevent her from leaving the room without you. Simply step on the cord to stop her.

At the first sign your dog needs to go, whisk her outside. Those signs include circling, sniffing, anxiousness, whining among other symptoms.

When you’re not observing your dog with full attention, you confine her to the crate. That being said, you do need to ensure your dog has liberty periodically so she’s not all day in the crate. By being diligent now, you’ll be able to give Fido years of liberty with no worries. So it’s well worth the investment in time at this stage.

Be sure you spend time playing with your dog, and also let her wander outside the crate. Avoid tossing her in the crate as punishment. Alleviate your guilt feelings by placing bones smeared with peanut butter in with her.

This method makes it impossible for your dog to have an accident. You’re either right there to take her out, or she’s in the crate where she won’t want to go. When you’ve had a month with no accidents, you can begin to let the dog earn a little more liberty, five or ten minutes at a time.

That means she can be out of your sight for a few moments at a time. But only a few. You want to build slowly on a record of success until your dog literally forgets that the house ever contained a bathroom.

For each week with no accident, you can give Fido a few more moments of liberty at a time. However, if there is an accident, go back a step, and reduce that liberty. One accident in the house erases progress made for the several previous days.

Confine and Observe your way to house breaking success. In the course of just two or three months, you’ll have a dog you can trust in the home. It’s going to be worth the effort!



About The Author Marc Goldberg is a dog trainer specializing in the rehabilitation of difficult dogs and improving relationships. He is Vice President of the International Association of Canine Professionals (IACP) and Editor of SafeHands Journal. The author also educates professional dog trainers in his techniques. Visit him on the web at http://www.chicagodogtrainer.com or http://www.dogtraininginchicago.com. http://www.chicagodogtrainer.com

Keywords: dog toys, dog beds, dog collars, pet supplies, dog training, dog health

Posted by lucysdoghouse at 09:53 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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You could House train your dog easily if you had the time to watch your puppy 24 hours a day. But as you can’t watch them around the clock, don’t expect to train them all at once. Training can take up to about 6 months. Puppies are growing and developing quickly at this stage. They eat more food and burn up lots of energy and consequently need to ‘go’ more often.

The most important issue in house training dogs should be teaching him to control his bowel. When he is still a puppy, he has not yet developed bladder control. House training dogs is hard when you are not home. Your puppy needs a lot of attention. You should first confine your puppy in a puppy-proof room with paper spread all over the floor. Put his water bowls and food right next to it. The papers you have set on the floor may be dragged and chewed around his little den, but its important and helpful in teaching your puppy where to eliminate his waste properly. There will be no reason for him to defecate elsewhere. Your puppy will ‘go’ on the paper, and you need to clean it up when you arrive home. This may be an additional job for you, but patience is all it takes. Don’t worry because later on, he will move past this stage.

Paper training is very useful and a proven technique in training dogs. In this way, no matter where the dog relieves himself, he will still eliminate on the paper because he has no choice. Little by little, you will see some changes. Gradually reduce the amount paper you have set on the ground. Start to move the paper outside the house. Of course, as your puppy has become used to using the paper he will look for it. Once the paper has been moved to outside the house, your training is near its end. Move the paper about an inch per day.

Occasionally, you may discover that he has had ‘accidents’ inside the house again. Don’t be discouraged. This happens. What you need to do is repeat the training. But understand that it will not be as hard as the first time. House training your dog is key for both your dog and your sanity and sanitation.

About The Author

Simon Oliver has an interest in Recreational Activities & Hobbies. To find out how you can get more information on successfully training your dog please visit this http://www.boxer-dog-guide.com site.

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Posted by lucysdoghouse at 09:51 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Without question, house training is one of the top priorities for dog owners. While we all expect puppies to require house training, there are many older dogs who have ongoing confusion too.

One of the most frequent housebreaking dilemmas is when the dog seems to be house trained, but occasionally has accidents in a certain spot in the home. Some of the most common locations where these accidents to happen are formal dining rooms, guest rooms, basements, laundry rooms and hallways. However, regardless of where your dog’s confusion spot is, you can train him so it stops.

The first step in alleviating this problem is to understand how dogs think regarding house training. Dogs are innately clean animals, who generally don’t like to soil where they live. Instinctively, even wild dogs will choose separate areas for eating, resting and eliminating.

Housebreaking builds off of your dog’s natural instinct to keep his living space clean. This is why one of the first areas dogs learn to keep clean is their crate, usually followed by the rooms in your home where he spends the most time (kitchen, living room, etc.).

So why does your dog sometimes have accidents in that certain spot? Usually, the accident spot is one where he doesn’t spend much time… like the formal dining room, guest room or garage. Since he doesn’t spend much time there, he may not feel like it’s part of his home where he lives and so should be kept clean. In your dog’s mind, this spot is “other than where he lives” and therefore is about the same as eliminating outside.

Now that you understand why your dog is having these accidents, it’s time to clear up the confusion! The best way to do that is to spend lots of time in the area with your pet, so your dog will feel like he does live there and will want to keep it clean. This can be accomplished by practicing obedience in the area, brushing and playing with your dog in the area, and even feeding your pet there for awhile so it seems even more like a food area where he shouldn’t go to the bathroom.

Of course, be sure to clean the spot thoroughly with an odor neutralizer so your dog is not attracted to the spot due to old smells.

By implementing the simple steps of making your dog feel like he lives in all areas of your home, supervising him, practicing obedience and praising outdoor eliminating, you can prevent or alleviate this problem so you’ll be able to trust and enjoy your pet much more.

For more details about this and other house training problems, buy the book, "Everything You Need to Know About House Training Puppies & Adult Dogs", by Lori Verni (the author of this article!).

Article written by Lori Verni

Lori Verni is a freelance writer, Certified Master Trainer and owner of Best Paw Forward Dog Education in Holly Springs, NC. She also proudly brings you all of the free articles on FreeDogTrainingInfo.com, and has a book available: Everything You Need to Know About House Training Puppies & Adult Dogs. The book can be purchased at www.FreeDogTrainingInfo.com

Keywords: dog toys, dog beds, dog collars, pet supplies, dog training, dog health

Posted by lucysdoghouse at 05:43 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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The good news is that you can house train a dog (an adult dog that is) fairly quickly…faster than puppies anyway…the bad news is, you’ve got to be consistent and actually do the work because your dog won’t have a clue what to do.

So how do you get started?...I thought you’d never ask.

1. Set Up “His Space”

Create an area where you can confine your pooch…you’ll use it for those times when you’re away or when you don’t want to be keeping a close eye on him…make sure a large part of that space is covered with newspapers too (about 3 sheets thick).

When (not if) he uses the papers, clean up the mess and replace the papers as soon as you can…but place one of the soiled papers right in the middle of the new batch…this will help build the “here is where I go” idea in his brain. Over time (maybe days, maybe weeks) his “aim” will improve and you’ll be able to reduce the papered area to maybe just a single sheet.

2. Create a Feeding & Watering Routine

Your best partner in house training your buddy will be setting up and sticking to a feeding and watering schedule…feed and water him at the same times every day – no exceptions…no snacks in between; no special treats (until he’s trained)…in this way his body will automatically respond to the schedule and be predictable…this will help you immensely with your house training.

3. Observe, Observe, Observe

Keep an eye on him at all times (when he’s not in “his space”)…now that he’s on a schedule, you’ll find out that Fido will need to “go” shortly after each feeding session, and perhaps shortly after each watering session and maybe a few more unpredictable times…watch him closely and learn what his body language is when he needs to relieve himself…is he suddenly restless; is he sniffing around; is he (and wouldn’t this be great?) scratching at the door?

4. Do Your Leg Work

When he “shows the signs,” put him on a leash and get your legs workings…take him outside to the place you want him to use. Make sure this is the same place every time…don’t confuse him by switching it around on him.

Be patient and while he’s sniffing around, repeat a command he can associate with this behavior in the future…use something like “go, go, go” or “time to go boy,” etc…then when he finally “goes,” make sure to give him a lot of praise and strokes…you want him to associate that praise with his actions so his little doggie brain will remember “Go Outside = Good Stuff”

5. Correcting Mistakes

If he goes “where no dog has gone before,” immediately, make eye contact with him and correct him with a firm “No” then lead him to the place you want him to use (either outside or to his “papers”)

But you must remember (and never forget) you can only correct him if you catch him in the act…if it’s any later, even just seconds later, your correction won’t work; he won’t make the connection you want…in fact, it will have a negative impact…so, if you miss your chance, you’ll just have to be more vigilant and catch him the next time.

But once the deed is done, clean up the mess completely and remove the odor completely too, because it will be the smell that brings him back to that spot for a return visit.

6. Keep Your Attitude Positive

Keep in mind that house training any dog takes time…it could take weeks…some dogs will be able to control themselves sooner than others and some will learn what you want from them sooner than others. If you want to be successful in the shortest amount of time, it’s up to you to maintain the right attitude and be persistent and consistent so your buddy has the best chance to learn.

I hope this helps…thanks for reading.

Did you know that to house train a dog is just the first training step you’ll take with your pooch? Need help taking the next steps? Then check out http://AlexionReviews.com.



About The Author Michael Royce is an amateur dog trainer who has lived with, trained, (and been trained by) more than a dozen dogs in the last 25 years. He is a regular contributor to several websites including http://The-Dog-Zone.net

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Posted by lucysdoghouse at 05:41 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Housebreaking an older dog is not an impossible task. Although it is generally easier to housebreak a puppy, any dog can be housebroken given the proper techniques. First, before you begin, you must know how a dog thinks. I would say that a dog thinks 80% of the time with its nose, and the rest of the time with its other senses. If you look at animals in the wild, you’ll notice that most mammals like Wolves, Lions, Tigers, and Wild

Dogs scent mark their territories. This is not only a sign of demarcation, but a place where these animals return to mark over and over again, in order warn other animals or their rivals that this is their territory. It is precisely this habit that the distant cousins of wolves, our dogs, exercise on a daily basis. That is, dogs know and remember where to go “potty” by mainly using their sense of smell. Dogs a creatures of habit; therefore, they generally like to go “potty” after a meal, after they wake-up from a nap, and after they exercise. Your job is to recognize when your dog needs to “go” and guide it to the pre-designated area before it does its business. Thus, you must monitor your dog for at least 2 weeks until the desired outcome is programmed into your dog’s psyche.

So, what are you to do if your dog makes a mistake and “goes” in the middle of your living room? The answer depends on whether you catch your dog in the middle of the act or not. If you catch it in the middle of the act, you can say something like “no,” and quickly lead your dog to the desired location before it finishes doing its business. If, however, you find the mess after the fact, you must NEVER punish your dog. Your dog simply won’t understand what it is being punished for and it will soon learn to fear you instead of look at you as its leader.

The question then is “what should one do if one finds the mess after the fact?” My advice is as follows: take a newspaper or towel and rub it onto the mess; then, take it back to the location where you desire your dog to “potty,” and smear that area. This will teach your dog to use its natural instincts (to scent mark) to go “potty” exactly where you want it to. But you still are not done yet! Now you must erase your dog’s memory of the location in your house where it had gone “potty” by properly cleaning the spot with the right cleaning agent. Cleaning with ordinary household cleaners is a bad idea. Most household cleaners contain Ammonia; the very ingredient in Urine which arouses a dog’s instinct to scent mark. So, instead of using ordinary household cleaners, use a product like “Nature’s Miracle,” which is specifically designed to remove the smell of urine and feces and erase you dog’s memory of the previous location where it had done its business.

The key to housebreaking an older dog is patience. Be patient, and you dog will learn to do what you ask of it in no time.

About The Author

Armen T. Ghazarians offers advice and articles for those interested in training their dogs like the professionals. His blog http://www.prsnal.blogspot.com offers information regarding many aspects of professional dog training for anyone who is not a professional dog trainer.

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Posted by lucysdoghouse at 11:43 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Separation anxiety is a problem wherein a dog is very anxious when left alone. Symptoms can include: whimpering, salivating, barking, housebreaking accidents, chewing, excessive licking, scratching or digging. Some dogs may even show symptoms when owners go into another room, or to throw out the trash!

This can be very upsetting for pet owners as well. Not only does it tend to make one feel guilty for going out, but it’s also no fun to return home to accidents, home damage, or an injured pet. However, there are many things humans can do to prevent or alleviate this problem!

First, it’s very important to make sure your dog is confined to a safe area, such as a crate, when you’re out. Dogs being den animals, feel safer in their own small, enclosed space. This will also protect both your pet and your belongings. Click here for info on recommended crates. Click here for crate training article.

Next, be sure that you don’t make a big deal when leaving or returning home. Don’t smother your dog with kisses, apologies, and a tearful goodbye. A flippant "See ya later!" is more appropriate. When arriving home, you’ll need to immediately take your dog outside to eliminate. However, during those first 10 minutes home, avoid eye contact and act like your return is no big deal.

Another key ingredient is obedience training. This will help build your dog’s confidence so he feels more comfortable "in his own skin" and within your household pack. You’ll also be able to use commands such as the down/stay to teach your pet to be more independent when you are home. Practice having your dog down/stay while you move about the house, rather than always following you like a shadow.

"A tired dog is a good dog" also goes a long way with separation anxiety. A good session of exercise immediately before leaving will be more conducive to your pet relaxing while you’re out.

Finally, and this is extremely important… never correct your dog for "crimes" committed while you were gone! This will definitely make the problem much worse, as your dog may be double worried… about you being gone, and you returning home!

Often, alleviating separation anxiety will require working with a qualified professional dog trainer. However, most improve quite nicely, resulting in both you and your pet relaxing when you’re out!

This article was written by Lori Verni Lori Verni is a freelance writer, Certified Master Trainer and owner of Best Paw Forward Dog Education in Holly Springs, NC. She also proudly brings you all of the free articles on FreeDogTrainingInfo.com, and has a book available: Everything You Need to Know About House Training Puppies & Adult Dogs. The book can be purchased at www.FreeDogTrainingInfo.com

Keywords: dog toys, dog beds, dog collars, pet supplies, dog training, dog health

Posted by lucysdoghouse at 06:01 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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When you get a new pet, one of the top priorities is to make sure that he adjusts well to his new home environment. While humans are usually excited about their new furry family member, a new dog or puppy might not understand right away what’s expected of him or what it will be like.

One of the best things you can do is to provide consistency for your new dog. Creating a schedule will be instrumental in helping him to adjust. This means that you should choose times of day for feeding, walking, playing, training and quiet time… and do your best to stick to them every day.

Training is another aspect that can help immensely in pets’ adapting to their new home. While you don’t want to overdo it by expecting your dog to be completely trained the first day, spending some time each day teaching him to “sit” and “stay” can help your new dog or puppy to feel more comfortable in the family pack. By providing leadership, you’re helping him realize where he stands in the family pecking order, which will make him feel relieved about knowing, and will also help set the tone for his relationship with your family for many years to come.

Children will need extra supervision, especially during the first few weeks of having a new puppy or dog. It is very exciting for kids to get a dog, but it’s also important to ensure that your new pet has some quiet time each day and that children are not too overwhelming in their enthusiasm. Set clear guidelines early, including staying away from the dog’s food and water, not going in his crate and giving him his own personal space, just as we all need sometimes.

Another thing that can help avoid problems is to supervise your new puppy or dog at all times. Even if you have a fenced yard, it is a good idea to personally leash walk your dog to a designated area to “do his business,” and oversee whatever else he is doing in the yard. This can help create good habits such as using a designated bathroom area, while also avoiding problems such as digging, fence jumping, damaging landscaping, chewing things and more.

Of course, diligent supervision inside the house is best for the first several weeks as well. Puppies will probably require strict supervision far longer than that.

Imagine that you moved to a foreign country that had very different traditions than you were used to. It’s likely that this is how your new dog or puppy feels. Just as you might be nervous, reserved or excited in your new country, it’s probable that your pet feels the same way about his new home. By taking some time to help him learn the “lay of the land,” allowing him some time and space to adjust, and providing love and consistency, you have the best chances of helping your pet become the lifelong friend you envisioned!

Article written by Lori Verni

Lori Verni is a freelance writer, Certified Master Trainer and owner of Best Paw Forward Dog Education in Holly Springs, NC. She also proudly brings you all of the free articles on FreeDogTrainingInfo.com, and has a book available: Everything You Need to Know About House Training Puppies & Adult Dogs. The book can be purchased at www.FreeDogTrainingInfo.com

Keywords: dog toys, dog beds, dog collars, pet supplies, dog training, dog health

Posted by lucysdoghouse at 05:59 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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As the beginning of the school calendar draws near, many people’s schedules change. Those who work in schools, as well as parents, students and others, will have a much different schedule than during the lazy days of summer. Other times of year may also cause significant changes in schedule, such as a new job or other lifestyle adjustment.

A significant change in schedule can be a big adjustment for dogs or puppies. Some pets may develop separation anxiety from suddenly being home alone for longer periods of time. Others may experience housebreaking accidents, chewing problems, and more.

There are many steps you can take to train your dog or puppy to adjust. Following, is a list of things you can do ahead of time to help your dog adapt:

Personally leash walk your dog to a designated area to do his business. This will help your dog to quickly identify when it’s time to “go”, and will provide your pet with some attention and exercise. For a complete guide to teaching your dog to use a designated bathroom area, check out the book "Everything You Need to Know About House Training Puppies & Adult Dogs". If your dog has had very frequent access to go outside, cut down on that freedom little by little in advance. This will help your dog or puppy to build up the needed muscle control to last for longer periods of time between walks without housebreaking accidents.

Teach your dog or puppy to sometimes be independent from you. Discourage him from following you around constantly like a shadow. Instead, train your dog to remain in a down/stay position while you move freely around your home. This may keep separation anxiety problems from developing.

Leave your dog or puppy home alone for periods of time starting now. Optimally, you’ll want to gradually build up to the full time you’ll be out with your new schedule. Don’t make a big deal about leaving or returning home. If you act apologetic about leaving, it can make your dog more anxious. Instead, act as if your coming and going is perfectly normal (which it is). Use your dog’s crate. Particularly if you have a puppy or an adult dog who sometimes chews or gets into mischief. If your dog damages things while you’re out, such behaviors are far more likely to become habits. Crate training is for your dog’s safety, your furnishing’s safety, and your own peace of mind. More info on crates, recommended ones, and great prices.

Practice obedience commands with your pet. By providing leadership, your dog is likely to be a much more well-adjusted pet who adapts well to your household’s lifestyle. By following the tips outlined above, you should be able to prevent problems from developing. Be sure to click on the highlighted links throughout this article to read additional Free Dog Training Info articles. If you need additional help, consider contacting an educated, knowledgeable dog trainer.

Article written by Lori Verni

Lori Verni is a freelance writer, Certified Master Trainer and owner of Best Paw Forward Dog Education in Holly Springs, NC. She also proudly brings you all of the free articles on FreeDogTrainingInfo.com, and has a book available: Everything You Need to Know About House Training Puppies & Adult Dogs. The book can be purchased at www.FreeDogTrainingInfo.com

Keywords: dog toys, dog beds, dog collars, pet supplies

Posted by lucysdoghouse at 05:57 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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It’s that time of year again. Holiday festivities are coming to an end and with the start of a new calendar year, there is a feeling of fresh beginnings.

With cooler temperatures outdoors, no big events on the horizon, and not much else to do to fight the winter doldrums, this is a great time to focus on training your dog. Whether a new pet who just joined your family, an old pet who has a few naughty habits or a dog who has been downright driving you crazy, there is no better time than the present to resolve to do things right with training your dog.

If you’ve ever made a “pet mistake” in the past, perhaps ending up “getting rid of” your dog or suffering for years with annoying habits, now is the time to avert those problems. With the average life span of a dog being about 15 years, no doubt it is worthwhile to prevent or alleviate behavior problems, whether you have a little puppy or a dog who is more advanced in years.

Some of the most common issues you’ll want to work on with puppies include house training, socialization and chewing. You’d probably be surprised if you knew how many people never make sure their puppies completely understand the rules about these issues, and wind up spending unnecessary months or years tolerating accidents, having property damaged or ending up with a dog who is not as friendly as they’d originally hoped.

The three most important things you can do to avoid these problems include confining your puppy to a crate when you’re unable to supervise, doing obedience training to earn his respect and teach the rules and taking him out on a regular basis to be thoroughly socialized with people and dogs.

If you have an older puppy or an adult dog with ongoing behavior problems, there is no better time than the present to work on the issues. Whether on your own or with a trainer, a little work with your dog now will pay off in years of enjoying your pet.

There are some problems you may not know what to do about, such as excessive barking, fear problems, aggression or other things you may have tried to work on before without success. For these issues, you may need the help of a professional trainer.

But there are some things you probably do know what to do about, but just haven’t gotten around to. Like teaching your dog to stay off the couch or taking your dog for walks regularly so he is better socialized and not as bored and mischievous at home.

Whether a puppy or an adult dog, a new pet or old, the new year can be a great time to make a fresh start and get things on the right track. Happy New Year!

Article written by Lori Verni

Lori Verni is a freelance writer, Certified Master Trainer and owner of Best Paw Forward Dog Education in Holly Springs, NC. She also proudly brings you all of the free articles on FreeDogTrainingInfo.com, and has a book available: Everything You Need to Know About House Training Puppies & Adult Dogs. The book can be purchased at www.FreeDogTrainingInfo.com

Keywords: dog toys, dog beds, dog collars, pet supplies, dog training, dog health

Posted by lucysdoghouse at 06:00 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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People mistakenly think that teaching their dog to sit is incredibly hard. But it's easy!

All you have to have is (a) the right technique and (b) the patience to repeat the same command and tactile actions about 25 to 30 times.

By the 31st time, I'd be willing to bet your dog (because he or she is smarter than anyone else's) is already starting to sit when you give the command.

Elapsed time: about 30 minutes. Repeat as necessary to gain full "sit" control. That's it!

Here's the complete low-down:

The Sit Command is one of the easiest commands to teach your dog during dog training. The reason? It involves tactile (touch), the leash and collar combo, and praise (one of the most important ingredients in dog training).

Here’s the basic routine for the “Sit” command: position your dog by your left side, with the “pinch” collar (or the collar of your choice) in place around your dog’s neck. Your dog probably will be standing on your left, tongue hanging out, wondering what’s next. Yup, yup – what’s next?

It’s simple. Every command sequence follows basically the same routine, a standard in programming dog behavior: a minimum of words, tactile reinforcement of the command (until they start associating the command with the action), and praise – lots and lots of praise (when the action is completed correctly :-)

Here’s how it goes in sequence: Call the dog by name, speak the command, and follow through with touch.

In this case, for my dog, it would be “Honey! Sit!” spoken in a commanding tone. The first time, your puppy dog will not have any idea what you mean. So, with your right hand, you will pull up on the leash while pushing down on the dog’s hindquarters with your left hand. Forcibly, if need be.

The combination of the two actions may bring a surprised yelp and a bit of struggle. But gently (and firmly) pull up with your right hand, and push down with your left. The dog really has no choice but to comply, and as he or she does so, lavish them with praise.

As I said, the first time for the sit command will be a new experience for you both. But the second time will be a bit easier. And the third, and the fourth time, as each completed command is followed with praise, you’ll be thinking: “this dog behavior, dog training thing is a snap” – but only when the dog’s hindquarters are actually touching the ground can the celebration begin. Then, the reinforcement in the dog behavior will be clearly associated with the command and the subsequent action.

By the time you get to the tenth time, believe it or not, the dog will likely already be in the motion of sitting down as your right hand goes up with the leash, and your left hand is reaching for the dog’s hind end.

Repetition is like magic for dogs! Issue the same command, in the same tone of voice, in the same sequence, as many times as you want to practice this. But I would not try it more than 30 times in a row – both of you will get bored. Instead, begin practicing the next step, which will be to teach your puppy dog the “Down!” command.

For more details, visit http://www.tenstepdogtraining.com. And enjoy the Dog Obedience Journey!



About The Author Don Sloan is an experienced dog trainer who has worked for ten years with the Humane Society, teaching dogs (and their owners) how to get the control and obedience they want! Visit his website at http://www.tenstepdogtraining.com

Keywords: dog toys, dog beds, dog collars, pet supplies, dog training, dog health

Posted by lucysdoghouse at 05:59 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Imagine you just finished grilling a beautiful filet mignon steak. You realize that you forgot the steak sauce, so you walk away from the table to go to the refrigerator and get it. Out of the corner of your eye, you see your dog staring at the steak, walking straight toward it while salivating as if you’d served it to him in his dog bowl!

When do you think is a good time to correct your dog by telling him “no” and putting him into a down/stay position? While he’s definitely thinking of stealing the meat? Or not until after he’s already taken it and run off with it in his drooly mouth?

In the above scenario, it seems obvious that it would be best to stop your dog before he actually takes the steak. One of the reasons I love to use this example is because of its obvious simplicity.

However, similar timing is also applicable to many other situations. It is always best to redirect your dog into a more appropriate behavior before he gets to the full extent of the bad behavior, as long as you’re certain he’s thinking of doing it.

To clarify, another example would be a dog who barks and pulls when he sees other dogs. If you’re walking your dog and he sees another dog, assumes a “stalking” posture and is staring at the approaching dog, it is certain that if you don’t correct him, he will escalate into the full-fledged barking/pulling behavior. Instead, you can tell your dog “no” and get his attention back on you as soon as the staring begins.

There are a multitude of other scenarios to which this applies… you just have to use your imagination. Is your dog definitely planning on jumping on the visitors? Probably yes, if he’s all excited, hopping around and acting like a madman while they’re walking up your path. Is he definitely going to rifle through the trash? Probably yes, if he’s sniffing the garbage can, licking its edges and has done this before. No need to wait until he’s already strewn the coffee grinds, banana peels and raw chicken wrappers all over the kitchen.

Redirecting your dog as soon as the thoughts or feelings are occurring to him can be an excellent way to solve behavioral issues. By not waiting until your dog is fully in the throes of barking, or until after he’s received the “reward” of licking the chicken wrappers, behaviors can be redirected much more quickly and effectively.

Beware that it is very important to be careful that you are reading your dog’s body language correctly. For example, if you have a puppy who is circling around on the living room carpet, it’s possible that he is getting ready to have an accident. However, dogs also circle around when they’re simply getting ready to lay down and you wouldn’t want to correct him for that. Get to know your pet and be sure you’re reading him correctly before moving forward with your educational exercises.

With a little effort, you can read your dog’s body language and head off problems before they escalate, resulting in a more well-behaved pet, fewer incidents along the way and problems solved much more quickly.

Article written by Lori Verni

Lori Verni is a freelance writer, Certified Master Trainer and owner of Best Paw Forward Dog Education in Holly Springs, NC. She also proudly brings you all of the free articles on FreeDogTrainingInfo.com, and has a book available: Everything You Need to Know About House Training Puppies & Adult Dogs. The book can be purchased at www.FreeDogTrainingInfo.com

Keywords: dog toys, dog beds, dog collars, pet supplies, dog training, dog health

Posted by lucysdoghouse at 05:57 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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The first thing you should understand about alleged “behavior problems” is that they are rarely a problem for the dog. Chances are pretty good that he enjoys digging up your garden, tilting over the trash, jumping on you, chasing any cat or un-stuffing the couch.

Problem correction, like command training, has an expected sequence of steps you must follow to be successful:

Prevent Unwanted Practice

Before you could attempt to any changes make sure that you are not creating another problem. If you don’t give the dog what he requires, a proper diet, plenty of exercise and daily dealings or if you give him more than what he can actually handle, crate him for long hours, constantly excite him or may be frighten him frequently, he would not be able to give you his best.

Now prevent the accidents until you and your dog are actually prepared. Crating, closing doors, moving the cat box or bowl, or may be keeping him on lead with you are just a few ways to minimize mischief. When you leave, lock him safely.

Teach Better

Always give your dog a way to succeed, a way to earn rewards. With behavior problems, ask your self “What behavior we want?”

Often “sit” is a normal option. A dog who is sitting cannot be jumping up, stealing food from the kids counter tops etc... One of the best ways to address a surplus behavior is to just spend several days working on the desired alternative until your dog would do it quickly and more reliably by clearly directing him to the desired behavior, he quickly learns how to earn approval and rewards.

Practice

Behavior problems can not be willed away. It doesn’t really help to think about crating him or to think setting up a training situation. Do it. We’ve seen people resolve similar difficult canine problems for which we held out little hope of recovery. It has achieved through pure diligence and pure commitment. Not every problem has a solution, but most they do and that solution is 100% dependent on you. Take the time and create a minor miracle.



About The Author Anbhu Selvan is an experienced dog care specialist and is also a good writer on the topic. He also gives suggestion on how to make your dog look catchy and colorful without irritating the dog’s mood. Various products are designed and are available keeping in mind the dog’s comfort and mood. For further information on dog care, dog clothes and accessories, and other dog requirements please visit http://www.dressypuppy.com and to contact anbhuselvan mail to: anbhuselvan@gmail.com

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Posted by lucysdoghouse at 08:59 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Getting the right trainer for your dog or puppy is critical in training your pet the way that you, as the owner, feel comfortable. A trainer is just like a teacher or a coach for children, if you don’t feel comfortable with how they are handling your pet you will not likely continue the training method at home which will lead to confusion and non-compliance with your dog. A good trainer or professional will always be willing to share their views on dog training as well as explain their methods and philosophy for training.

Points To Consider

Before deciding on the professional trainer to work with both yourself and you dog do a bit of research. The following questions are important to consider to be certain that the trainer that you choose will be the correct match.

1. What type of training does the kennel or trainer offer?

There are different types of trainers and various training methods. If you want a hunting dog or scent dog then the trainer should have experience in this type of specialization. Guard dogs or dogs for home protection require additional training over basic obedience and should only be trained by someone experienced with guard dog. Obedience training is different than event training and be sure the trainer has some experience in the area you are interested in.

2. What qualifications does the trainer have?

Trainers may be certified or recognized by a training association in your area or location, or they may simply have been working for a long period of time in the area and we well known by breeders and event competitors. Never be afraid to ask what qualifications or experience the trainer has.

3. What references are available?

Does the trainer have a list of references that he or she is willing to provide regarding the services they have provided. If the trainer has a certification ask what agencies granted it and do a bit of research. References should be local people or breeders and they should be open to talking about their experiences and results of using the particular trainer.

4. How should I find a trainer?

There are many different ways to locate a trainer. One of the best ways to locate a trainer in your area is to simply ask your veterinarian which professional trainer they recommend. Another option is to talk to other dog owners, especially ones with well-behaved dogs, and find out what trainers or training methods that they have used.

Attending dog shows and other events may also be helpful. Watch for handlers and owners that respond to their dogs the same way that you would like to have your dog treated and ask who has assisted with the training.

Dog owners tend to be very good references and are always happy to discuss a positive experience with a trainer. Equally most dog owners will also indicate that they had an unpleasant experience if that is the case. Remember that each trainer has their own unique style and personality so attending one or two classes and watching how the trainer responds to both the people and the dogs is a great way to get an insight into the philosophy of the training methods.



About The Author Kelly Marshall is a popular contributor at http://www.ohmydogsupplies.com - where you can find dog beds, dog steps, pet ramps, and more unique dog gear that you'll never find at your local pet store.

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Posted by lucysdoghouse at 08:30 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Barking. It’s one of the things that dogs do. In fact, there are occasions when it’s a benefit to have a dog who barks. If there were a stranger entering your property or if something were genuinely amiss, a barking dog could be downright helpful.

What is not helpful however, is a dog who barks constantly. A twig snapped in the backyard, “Bark, bark, bark!” Neighbors are grilling in their yard, “Ruff, ruff, ruff!” Neighborhood kids are riding their bikes, “Yap, yap, yap!”

This is a problem that is not only extremely annoying to neighbors, but can also be rather chafing on the pet’s owners who are either inside the house or out in their yard. Many dog or puppy owners find themselves constantly yelling “Cut it out! Hush!”… which for most dogs doesn’t stop the barking but instead just adds to the commotion.

Another down side to a constantly barking dog is that he can become rather like the boy who cried wolf. Since the dog barks so much, there is a tendency to not even go see what it is he’s barking about. In the event of an actual intruder, your dog might be trying to tell you, but will instead either be ignored or told to hush because the barking is so common.

The first step in alleviating this problem is to work on some obedience training with your pet. If he doesn’t clearly understand what “no” and “good dog” mean, he will not comprehend what you’re asking when you holler out the window. Likewise, if your dog doesn’t respect you, even if he does know what you mean, he will not listen anyway.

Some basic obedience commands such as “heel,” “sit,” “down,” “stay” and “come” will help establish a learning curve for your pet, and being consistent during practice will help you to earn his respect at the same time. Another benefit of obedience training is that it helps to stave off boredom. You may be surprised how many dogs bark all the time simply because it’s an activity.

The next step is to get outside with your dog or puppy! If he’s out there by himself, barking and running back and forth, all the hollering in the world is not going to stop him. You need to personally catch your dog barking inappropriately, tell him “no” and redirect him to a more appropriate behavior such as chasing a ball, doing a “down/stay” or another acceptable activity.

Also extremely important is to take your dog out on a leash and socialize him thoroughly with normal neighborhood occurrences. Introduce him to the neighbors. Bring him to meet the kids who ride their bikes. Hang around out front when your neighbors are doing yard work so he learns that it’s normal and acceptable for them to be there.

Between the obedience training, respecting you more, your personal supervision and being properly socialized with normal neighborhood happenings, your dog’s barking will be dramatically reduced. Soon, even your neighbors may start to like him!

Article written by Lori Verni

Lori Verni is a freelance writer, Certified Master Trainer and owner of Best Paw Forward Dog Education in Holly Springs, NC. She also proudly brings you all of the free articles on FreeDogTrainingInfo.com, and has a book available: Everything You Need to Know About House Training Puppies & Adult Dogs. The book can be purchased at www.FreeDogTrainingInfo.com

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Posted by lucysdoghouse at 08:29 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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You live with a predator.

He is not human.

He is armed with fangs for slashing flesh and molars for crushing bone. His jaw may exert nine hundred pounds per square inch of pressure. He has forty-two teeth in all.

His sense of smell is so powerful that we, with our human limitations, can barely comprehend. Our olfactory sense does not detect odors unless they are painfully obvious. The nose of this more efficient hunter collects and concentrates minute traces of scent until they create a mental picture more detailed than a visual image. When he smells the ground, he knows every thing that has passed within many, many hours, days even.

While our human eyes process a wealth of colorful detail, his eyes are specialized organs tuned to detect movement above all.

Aligned above his eyes and nose, aimed forward, preternatural ears detect frequencies and sound which easily escape us. Noises such as the softest rodent squeak beneath a thick blanket of snow do not evade him. The footfall of a stranger on an outside porch step does not escape his attention. He hears the breath of large prey even from a distance.

He is swift. The fastest of his kind can sprint at forty miles per hour, covering ten feet in a single bound.

He is agile and he is strong. He can crawl. He can jump. He has a high ratio of muscle to fat. He is an efficient predator. A carnivore designed to detect prey, catch it, to kill, to eat, to reproduce.

He is a social animal. Left to his own kind, he will live in a clearly organized pack led by a dominant male and a dominant female. Serious challenges to the social structure will be met swiftly and violently. Yet a strong survival and social instinct inhibits this killer from harming his own kind unless necessary to maintain order. Thus, he speaks a complex and rich language with which he can advertise his intentions. He assures his pack mates that he means no harm, but that he will defend his rank within the pack.

He is an animal. He is a predator. He is opportunistic. He understands social order, his place in that order, and lacking strong leadership from above, he is ready to assume control of his pack. He is ready to defend his pack from outsiders. And he is ready to protect it from social unrest within.

He is your dog.

He has forsaken life with his kind to inhabit your world. But he has not forsaken his nature. He retains his predatory nature. He remains a social animal. You and your family members are his pack mates. You are his leader.

Or he is yours.

Make no mistake about it. Your dog understands the hierarchy in his pack, the organizational flow chart if you will. He will yield to pack mates above him on the chart, but not below.

For example, if you give your dog a high value treat such as a meaty bone, can you take it away? Does your dog remove the bone and run away with it as soon as you’ve given it? That is a low level form of resource guarding behavior. Higher up on the scale is when your dog freezes and stiffens over the bone. In his language, your dog is very clearly stating an intention to guard the resource.

The only question is to what length he will go in order to retain it. Perhaps he is bluffing. If you reach in closer to touch the bone he may give it up. Or perhaps he will begin to growl, stiffening further over the treat, revealing his fangs. Whether he decides to bite you is a question determined not only by his perception of your ranking versus his, but also by the level of aggression he is willing to employ in defending this resource from you on this day.

If he is your leader, then he decides whether or not you touch the bone, and if that act will cost you an injury. If you are his leader, then when you make clear your intent to take the bone, he drops it into your hand without protest.

Dogs do not bite by accident. They decide. They choose. They make conscious decisions in a split second. If your dog permits you to take food and other valuable resources away and is willing to follow your direction, chances are good that he regards you as his leader. Therefore, he will give you all the privileges due your rank.

However, you may find that the dog does not treat all members of your family the same. If he respects you, but not your spouse or children, this can lead to serious problems. Be on the look out for ranking issues in the family.

If you find that your dog does not accept your leadership role, consider contacting us or another professional dog trainer to assist you. Not all dominant dogs are aggressive. Some dogs are very benign dictators who never bother to reinforce their rules upon you. But if your dog is the leader in your home, things can go wrong in this backward relationship.

The beauty of dog training is that, much like counseling, it can put the relationship back on track so the love affair can flourish.



About The Author Marc Goldberg is a dog trainer specializing in the rehabilitation of difficult dogs and improving relationships. He is Vice President of the International Association of Canine Professionals (IACP) and Editor of SafeHands Journal. The author also educates professional dog trainers in his techniques. Visit him on the web at http://www.chicagodogtrainer.com or http://www.dogtraininginchicago.com. http://www.chicagodogtrainer.com

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Posted by lucysdoghouse at 08:27 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Spring and summer are times of year that can be difficult for some pets and their owners. While most dogs are fine with thunderstorms, others are downright traumatized. With symptoms ranging from barking when they hear a thunderclap, to severe hysteria, chewing or self-injury, this can be a serious problem for both the dog and his owner.

One of the biggest difficulties in overcoming a thunderstorm phobia is that you can’t always predict when there will be one. Sometimes they occur when you’re home and can work with your pet, but other times they’re in the middle of the night or while you’re not home.

The first step is to work on some basic obedience commands with your dog. This will help build his confidence in general while also teaching the meanings of “no” and “good dog.” In addition, you’ll be able to use the obedience commands to teach your dog that even during thunderstorms he can behave “normally.”

Next, you’ll need to purchase a thunderstorm CD or cassette. Ironically, these are found in the relaxation section of any place that sells music. You’ll be using the CD to desensitize your dog to the sound of the thunderstorms.

In the beginning, play the CD on extremely low volume as background noise while you go about your day-to-day activities around your home. If your dog acts afraid, gently tell him “no,” and redirect to a more appropriate behavior, such as doing some obedience commands or playing ball. Gradually increase the volume until you’re able to work with your dog during a more realistic sounding storm.

The most important part of this exercise is to make sure you don’t accidentally praise your dog while he’s afraid. If you pet your dog in an attempt to soothe him, instead of feeling soothed he will feel as if you’re saying “good boy, acting afraid is good.” Instead, use a gentle “no” and redirect as described above. You may need to use his leash to help him.

Another important factor is your own behavior during real storms. If you act anxious, your pet will pick up on it and think he should be anxious too. Refrain from constantly checking the weather on television, peering out windows, etc.

Atmospheric pressure may be an additional trigger. It can help to work with your dog during regular rain as well, so he can learn under less severe circumstances that this is an acceptable weather condition.

Last but not least, be sure to confine your dog to a safe area such as a crate if you won’t be home. This will likely comfort your pet because he’s in his own special safe place, plus will keep him and your belongings safe should he become upset while you’re out.

By following these steps, your pet is likely to improve dramatically. These tips can also be applied to fireworks phobia as well. Working with an educated, experienced trainer can help too. By practicing with your dog in advance, hopefully both you and your dog can rest more easily next time there is a storm!

Article written by Lori Verni

Lori Verni is a freelance writer, Certified Master Trainer and owner of Best Paw Forward Dog Education in Holly Springs, NC. She also proudly brings you all of the free articles on FreeDogTrainingInfo.com, and has a book available: Everything You Need to Know About House Training Puppies & Adult Dogs. The book can be purchased at www.FreeDogTrainingInfo.com

Keywords: dog toys, dog beds, dog collars, pet supplies, dog training, dog health

Posted by lucysdoghouse at 05:55 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Dogs and kids can live together harmoniously, if the situation is properly understood and carefully handled.Friendships between dogs and kids are both wonderful and character building for the children.

Most dog bites inflicted on kids are by the family pet, or a neighbours dog. It is not that the dog is aggressive, it is just that Mums and Dads do not understand that children, and particularly babies, act very differently to adults, and it is this unusual behaviour that upsets the dogs.

My own children were brought up with German Shepherds, supposedly well know as aggressive dogs. The dogs were fairly anti-social to strangers but to the family they were totally trust worthy. I like to think that it was because I taught the kids to behave properly around and towards the dogs.

When dogs and kids are living together it is the kids that need to be taught to treat all dogs with the greatest respect, and to understand that dogs are not toys. As soon as babies are crawling they need to be told to be kind to the family dog. Puppies are never too young to learn, neither are babies. If you have just acquired a new puppy do not let it chew you or play nip, good training for when it is a fully grown dog.

Dogs protect all things that they care about, whether that be the house, their diner, the car, their bed, kids have to understand to leave dogs alone at certain times or certain places. Some dogs are, by nature, herding dogs, so these may chase a child if it runs away. This could excite the dog to attack.

Some dogs would get defensive if they are cornered or have some one standing over them. Kids should be taught to not scream, cuddle the dog tightly or pinch them. It should be remembered that as a dog gets older it could become less tolerant, so the family dog that has always been so good with the kids suddenly nips a child. Old dog get deaf so cannot hear a child approaching, so may nip out of surprise. It is not the dog’s fault!

Kids need to be told to never approach a strange dog, without asking permission. If the dog is out without it’s owner leave it alone.

To always approach in a steady quiet manor.

No teasing, yelling, hugging, pinching, pulling or chasing.

Always leave mothers with young alone.

Never try to stop a dogfight!

If you are approached by a strange dog, stand still; let the dog sniff you, no wriggling fingers, put them in your pocket if you have one.

Do not stare at the dog, and never run away.

If the dog is barking or growling, slowly walk away, keeping the dog in view.

Be sure your kids understand the difference between your own dog and a strange dog.

It is wise to never leave a baby or very young children alone together, no matter how well you think you know the dog.

This all sounds a little forbidding but dogs and kids really can have lots of fun together.



About The Author Valerie Dancer I have owned dogs for 42 years. Learning to train from my mother who trained to county level. Over the years I have found that the old ways of training are not always the best, that praise is the best form of training, and the younger the dog, the easier it is to train. http://www.dogtrainingproblems.biz

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Posted by lucysdoghouse at 08:46 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Which dog owner won't feel proud of his disciplined dog? Reversely, who won't feel ashamed of an unruly dog? It is very important for your dog to be absolutely obedient to commands of his owner. You can't expect your dog to be obedient by birth or nature. You have to take pains to make him understand obey your commands. Obedience training to your dog can be imparted in many ways - two of the more popular methods are typically carrot and stick methods. First method heavily depends on the stick or punishment approach. Second method deals with the reward system for the dog.

Leash and collar method of dog obedience training has survived for a long time now. It is primitive but still mostly followed. The premises of this training method are based here - leash will be the mode of communication with the dog. Dog must understand the commands, and if not obeyed to, leash should be put to action. Using leash alone is not sufficient - dog must be made aware of the good and bad behavior. Once tracked on the path to bad behavior, dog can be punished with the leash.

Reward system doesn't believe in punishing the dog. It follows psychological approach to deal with dog training. Dog is made to know the good parts of behavior and rewarded for the same. His ugly behavior is neglected in the form of psychological treatment. The trainer or owner walks away from the dog immediately after the show of bad behavior. Dog is an intelligent animal to understand the difference between the bad and good behavior.

Whatever technique is used for dog obedience training, it is important to know that the training must be consistent. Dogs get easily confused due to double standards employed. If you expect your dog never to jump on the bed, never let or invite him on the bed. Ensure that your dog never reaches the bed.

Obedience training starts on the fundamental issues like sitting, standing, walking, listening to your commands & following those, sitting in the car, etc. The dog owner can easily impart obedience training. You may find alternates to this by getting your dog enrolled with some obedience classes or dog instructor. Evaluate all the training techniques, methods, equipment, infrastructure, experience, etc before taking the final decision on outside help. Remember, the most ideal way will be yourself to be the instructor. Your dog will love it.

About The Author

Ted Belfour is the founder of http://www.house-training-puppy.info and http://www.training-a-puppy.info websites providing information on dog training. tedbelfour@yahoo.ca

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Posted by lucysdoghouse at 08:45 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Ethology is the science that studies behaviors of a species under natural situations. Therefore, it studies instinctive and non-instinctive behaviors that are typical of a species.

Dog whispering is a training technique based on canine ethology. So, it takes into account those behaviors that are natural in dogs, but usually ignore the principles of learning theories.

The fundamental premise of dog whispering is that the owner should become the leader of the pack. This is also known as the theory or paradigm of the alpha dog.

According to the alpha dog paradigm, dogs establish dominance hierarchies in the pack. Thus, you should achieve the higher hierarchy, the alpha dog status, in order to maintain a good relationship with your dog.

Though it is not clear when the paradigm of the alpha dog appeared, it is well known that it gained popularity in the eighties.

Jan Fennell and Cesar Millan are two of the most famous practitioners of dog whispering. The latter is perhaps the most famed trainer at these days, because of his show "The Dog Whisperer" broadcasted by National Geographic.

Some authors say that dog whispering is based on scientific studies of wolf packs. Others say the technique was developed after studying the social behavior of dogs for several years.

Unfortunately, there are several non-standardized variants of this technique. Besides, some of the technique variants seem to be based only on popular beliefs and not on real studies about dog behavior.

Dog whispering by itself is useless to teach obedience commands. For that reason, many trainers don't accept it as real training technique. Moreover, it is also frequent that practitioners of this technique don't consider themselves as dog trainers. Instead, they claim they are people who can communicate with dogs by a deep understanding of dog behavior and proper body language.

Dog whispering advocates claim that the technique provides a natural way to communicate with dogs. Some of these people also tend to use non-violent procedures. However, the degree of violence is highly variable and depends on the method used by the trainer.

Detractors claim that there is a lack of solid arguments in this technique. They also claim that dog whispering is based on popular beliefs, which could be true for several of its variants.

Same detractors usually question the alpha dog paradigm and argue that there's no need for a model based on dominance hierarchies.

Biologists Raymond and Lorna Coppinger are among the few people who carried out extensive scientific studies on social behavior and evolution of dogs. Their studies reject the paradigm of the alpha dog, and these scientists say that wolves and dogs have very different behavior repertoires. Therefore, studies on the behavior of wolves shouldn't be useful for a better understanding of dog's behavior.

Perhaps further studies on canine ethology could lead to a better understanding of dog behavior. Meanwhile, most dog whispering variants can't provide clear and precise guidelines for dog training; even when there are some really successful "dog whisperers" like Cesar Millan and Jan Fennell.





About The Author Rodrigo Trigosso is a biologist and professional dog trainer. His website http://www.dog-training-tutorial.com provides great info on canine training and behavior.

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Posted by lucysdoghouse at 08:44 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Punishment is a controversial subject in dog training, though it is widely used by both traditional and positive trainers.

The most common punishment is positive punishment. It consists in stopping an undesired behavior by adding an unpleasant thing or situation. Therefore, leash tugs are positive punishments.

On the other hand, negative punishment consists in stopping an undesired behavior by removing a pleasant thing or situation. Thus, you would be applying negative punishment if you remove a food treat or a toy from your dog's sight.

Positive punishment is widely used by traditional trainers and seldom used by positive trainers. Negative punishment is mostly used by positive trainers and seldom used by traditional trainers.

Typical positive punishers in dog training are: a pinch from the prong collar, an unpleasant and perhaps painful sensation when the choke chain closes, the "No" command, water squirts on the dog's face, loud sounds produced by objects thrown near the dog, electric shocks produced by electric collars and electric fences, etc.

Typical negative punishers in dog training are: ignoring your dog, a food treat removed from the scene, a toy removed from the scene, the end of a game, the end of a walk, stopping the walk when the dog pulls the leash, etc.

Although punishment is so widely used to train dogs, even in positive training, most trainers are not aware of its risks and limitations. Both positive and negative punishments could produce collateral adverse effects which include stress, anxiety and a reduction of learning abilities. Besides, when used too often, punishments could also lead to shyness and/or aggression. Of course, negative punishment tend to have less (or at least less intense) adverse effects.

Another disadvantage of punishment is that it has no long term effects. While you can use punishment to stop your dog from doing an unwanted behavior, this does not ensure that the behavior's frequency will be reduced. Punished behaviors tend to be maintained when the punishment is not applied frequently. That is the reason why prong, choke and electric collars are used even on dogs that have already being trained.

Despite the short term span of punishment, punished behaviors' frequency seems to be reduced in dogs that have been trained in such way. However, this usually is an erroneous interpretation because those behaviors don't appear when the punisher (maybe the trainer) is present. Then, after the punisher has been removed, the frequency of those behaviors tends to increase again.

It is very easy to see what I explained in the previous paragraph. Just look for a traditional trained dog which has not been trained by his owner. The dog will work perfectly when the trainer is present but stop working when the trainer is absent. Therefore, you can infer that the dog experiences some kind of anxiety when the trainer is present, because that man is somehow associated with punishment.

This does not mean that traditional trainers are cruel or violent. Of course there are stupid and cruel guys who call themselves trainers, but most traditional trainers can train dogs that obey happily and without fear. However, to achieve this level of training while using punishment and negative reinforcement, you must be very experienced. It is not easy to become a good traditional dog trainer.

A similar situation occurs when using negative punishment. For instance, you can stop your dog from jumping on you just by ignoring him when that behavior is displayed. However, it takes just one reinforcing episode (giving attention to your dog when he jumps on you) to take back the unwanted behavior. Even worst, it is very likely that the jumping behavior will be strengthened by that reinforcing episode, so you will need much more time to retrain your dog.

Ok, at this point it seems that this article is just an anti-punishment propaganda. Please believe me, it is not such thing. Punishment could be useful to train animals, which has been proven by scientific studies on experimental psychology. However, it could also have really big drawbacks.

So, if you are thinking to use punishment to train your dog, please don't rely only on reading about it. Call an expert and ask him/her to teach you the proper way to use punishments. And please don't believe the false statement that "choke chains, prong collars and electric collars are not punishing devices, but corrective ones". They are punishers. Therefore, if you are going to use those devices to train your dog, learn it from an expert.

On the other hand, you have a lot of alternatives to train your dog without punishment. There are several proven methods to stop your dog from doing unwanted behaviors without using punishment: training an incompatible behavior, putting the unwanted behavior on command, reinforcing every behavior except the undesired one, changing the motivation, etc.



About The Author Rodrigo Trigosso is a biologist and professional dog trainer. His website at http://www.dog-training-tutorial.com provides objective and reliable information on dog training and behavior.

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Posted by lucysdoghouse at 03:17 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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“Honey, you know I don’t like it when you lick my ears.” “Umm… It wasn’t me. Wait, where’s the dog?”

Studies show that about half of the people who own dogs allow them on the bed. Most dog owners I know account for the half that do. If you are one of them, here’s a few things to keep in mind.

* You should not let puppies or untrained dogs ON the bed, let alone sleeping on it. Their early training is the time when you establish your dominance and their boundaries. Only adult dogs should earn this privilege.

* Also puppies run the risk of house training accidents. Beds are difficult to clean, and the fact that they can preserve the scent means that your dog will want to be a repeat offender.

* Above all, puppies are small. Letting them sleep in the bed is extremely unsafe.

* For dominant and Alpha dogs, avoid letting them sleep in your “spot” (with you in it or not). This suggests to them that they are in direct competition with you as pack leader.

* Don’t ever let your dog on your bed without inviting them first. This is often communicated more with body language, such as a quick succession of pats on the area of the bed you’re asking them to go to.

* Have a command for them to get off the bed too (if they are being restless and disruptive this can save a good night’s sleep, and it beats shoving them off). If your dog ignores you when you ask them to get “Off,” you’ve got a bit of obedience work to do. If your dog growls at you at all, even when you attempt to adjust their position, then you’ve got some work to do (NOTE: don’t confuse a tired moan with a growl. It can sound similar, but a moan will occur without any aggressive posturing, for example, their mouth will be shut and lips not curled, and they won’t be making eye contact - their eyes might even be closed!)

* Don’t ever let your dog wedge itself in between you and your partner. This can be an expression of both jealously and attempted dominance, and can escalate into more severe behaviors. They need to know that they rank lower than both of you in the pack hierarchy.

* It’s best to allow your dog to sleep at the bottom end of the bed, and above the blankets.

* Some dogs like to burrow under the blankets, which is a risk not only because they can get squished, especially if they’re smaller than you, but they can also potentially suffocate under there. If you allow this, adjust the blankets after they settle in to be sure that they can easily stick their head out. Because they generate a lot of heat too, these burrowers will likely move when they get too warm anyway.

So take some care and avoid reinforcing unwanted dog behaviors. If you do, your dog will always be good in bed - so to speak.



About The Author Martin Olliver is a proud member of the Kingdom of Pets team (http://www.kingdomofpets.com). For more great articles about dogs on furniture, visit: http://kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/articles/dog_jumping_up.php

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Posted by lucysdoghouse at 03:16 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Dog behavior training is both an art and a science. Some experts say that a dog can have up to an 800-word vocabulary. I’m not so convinced of the number of words but I can verify that many of my dogs showed an uncanny ability to figure out exactly what I was trying to communicate.

One of the best dog training tips I ever got was from a neighbor when I got my first puppy. I was about 9 years old and this was the best present my parents had ever given me. My neighbor was an old hand at training dogs and had living proof in his own dog.

The first thing I did when I got Skipper (not sure why I picked that name, it just sounded right) was to rush over and show my neighbor. His name was hard to pronounce so every one in the neighborhood just called him Mr. D. So Mr. D was kind enough to run through some dog training basics and taught me a lot about how to take care of my new puppy.

Mr. D’s dog was a Jack Terrier called Willie. Willie could do any trick and would respond to almost any request. Willie pretty much had the run of the neighborhood and was known by all. In those days people just let their dog out since there were no leash laws and no one complained. My Mom often gave Willie any leftovers or a soup bones when he would stop by for a visit.

So when I showed up with Skipper, Willie was as excited as I was to have a new playmate. Skipper was a Springer Spaniel that we had rescued from the city dog pound. Skipper was probably about 6 months old but we never knew for sure since the dog pound didn’t know when he was born.

The first order of business was your basic dog house training. I got off pretty easy on this phase since Skipper seemed to prefer going outside to do his bathroom chores. From day one Skipper would go to the door and want to be let out when he needed to go.

Mr. D explained that the two most important things about any kind of dog training were rewards and repetition. The reward could be as simple as praise or a pat on the head. And that I should spend at least 30 minutes a day working with Skipper on anything I wanted to teach him to do.

So each day I would spend 30 minutes teaching Skipper how to stay, sit, fetch, and come when I called. Willie would come over and help too. I don’t know if they actually communicated but having another dog around that already knew all these tricks had to be beneficial.

Skipper also showed a high aptitude for retrieving. Of course I didn’t know at the time that he was a natural born retriever and took credit for being a great and skilled dog trainer. Once I got the basics down I worked on teaching Skipper how to heel, play dead, and not to jump on people.

Skipper started learning on his own too. When I was at school or somewhere that Skipper couldn’t go, my mother would be his next choice in companion. In those days we had what was called a Bookmobile that was a bus from the local library that would come to the neighborhood twice a week.

Skipper figured out that when the Bookmobile came he got to go for a walk with my mother. So like clockwork, Skipper would come to get my mother when it was about 2:00 pm on Tuesday and Friday. Skipper loved to go since he got to sit at the door and welcome every one that showed up each day.

Skipper also knew when it was Saturday. Saturday was grocery-shopping day and when my mother went to the store she always asked the meat department for some bones. Skipper knew that he would get his favorite snack on Saturday afternoons when my mother came back from the store.

For the next 14 years Skipper was my constant companion and escort. Skipper was an exceptional dog in disposition, learning ability, and affection. I also had a big advantage having a helpful neighbor and watching him and his dog. Mr. D and Willie were both a huge help and positive influence.

Dog training does require some dedicated effort but the rewards are more than worth the investment. My current dog, Tuxcitto, is a 24/7 project since he is a Border Collie and full of vim and vigor. But Tuxcitto is a lot like Skipper in that he is a fast learner and extremely affectionate companion.



About The Author John Dow owns http://www.freedogtrainingarticles.com, a website that provides free information on dog training. John gets to test his dog training skills daily with his new dog Tuxcitto. You can learn more here: http://www.freedogtrainingarticles.com

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Posted by lucysdoghouse at 03:15 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Dog training, the most simple acts often produce the best results. In any dog pack, the alpha sets the rules and the rest follow. Therefore, by establishing yourslef as the alpha, you can be sure that your obedience training sessions will be that much more productive. The following is a list of 8 simple things you can do to teach your new puppy or unruly dog that you are the alpha in your pack.

1. Never feed your dog from your plate while you're eating. A dog must learn that your are the alpha and that it can only eat when you are finished with your meal.

2. Never allow your dog on the sofa or on your bed. And if your dog sits on your path, gently shove it out of the way with your foot. By setting boundaries, you will instill in your dog that it must obey the alpha.

3. Never allow your dog to chew on your towels, socks, shoes, or clothing. Use bitter apple to discourage these behaviors.

4. NEVER HIT YOUR DOG FOR MISBEHAVING. Instead use the tone of your voice and a collar/leash to teach and make corrections.

5. Never allow a puppy to chew on your fingers. Otherwise, it will become a habit that will be very hard to break when it becomes an adult. Spray you hands and fingers with bitter apple and then allow the dog to proceed. The dog will learn not to bite your fingers without associating any negative thoughts about you as the alpha.

6. Never leave a hyper dog unexercised. Playing ball before you leave for work and after you return can help alleviate your dog's pent-up energy.

7. Never keep your dog alone in a yard for days at a times. Without proper socialization your dog will become aggressive towards other dogs as well as other humans. A dog needs contact with its own species in order to learn how to behave in a dog pack equally as well as it must learn to behave in a human pack. A dog left alone for long periods of time will believe itself to be the alpha and try to dictate to its master instead of the other way around.

8. Never allow your dog to jump on you or your guests. Its fun when your dog is a puppy, but it isn't fun when it becomes a 100lb behemoth. Practice with a collar and leash and set up situations where a neighbor rings your doorbell while your dog awaits their entrance. Make a sharp correction and command your dog to "sit" when as your neighbor enters the house. And, of course, don't forget to praise the dog as soon as it follows your command. Once the dog knows what to do, try the same thing off leash, but this time use a water spray bottle and spray your dogs face with water as punishment for jumping with a stern vocal correction of "NO".

Proceed to praise your dog once again when your dog obeys your command. This way, it will learn to associate praise with correct action. By following these steps, you will establish yourself as the alpha. And, you will have a head start in trainig your dog because it will have already learned to respect your authority as its leader.

About The Author

Armen T. Ghazarians offers advice and articles for those interested in training their dogs like the professionals. His blog http://www.newdogtrainingsecrets.com offers information regarding many aspects of professional Dog Training for anyone who is not a professional dog trainer.

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Posted by lucysdoghouse at 02:52 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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When you're learning about something new, it's easy to feel overwhelmed by the sheer amount of relevant information available. This informative article should help you focus on the central points. There are many different styles of dog training, and finding the one that works best for you is important for creating a dog that is a talented, loyal and faithful member of the family. All successful methods of dog training work to reinforce the relationship between dog and handler, and the foundation of any successful training program is getting the respect of the dog. Fortunately, dogs are wired by nature to seek out leaders, and to follow the direction of those leaders.

This article focuses on one of the most popular methods of dog training – the so called leash/collar style of training. Other articles will focus on the other popular style of training dogs, often called reward training or positive reinforcement. Both leash/collar training and reward training have been around for a very long time, and they have proven their effectiveness over time. The type of training that works best will vary from dog to dog, and from breed to breed. It is important to remember that each breed of dog has its own unique qualities, reinforced by hundreds of years of selective breeding.

Of course personalities of individual dogs vary quite a bit, even within established breeds. You, as the owner of the dog, know better than anyone which style of dog training will work best, so it is important to work with the trainer you choose to achieve your goal of a willing, obedient and friendly dog. Leash and collar training is the best way to accomplish many types of dog training, particularly in situations where the dog must have a high level of reliability. For instance, dogs that have an important job to do, such as rescue dogs, police dogs and guard dogs, generally benefit from leash and collar training.

If your dog training tip facts are out-of-date, how will that affect your actions and decisions? Make certain you don't let important dog training tip information slip by you. In leash and collar training, varying degrees of force can be used, ranging from slight prompts with the lead to very harsh corrections. The amount of correction used should be appropriate to the situation, since using too much correction, or too little, will be ineffective.

In a collar and leash based dog training program, first the dog is taught a particular behavior, generally with the leash. After the dog has demonstrated that it understands the command, the leash is then used to correct the dog if it disobeys, or when it makes a mistake. The leash is the main form of controlling and communicating with the dog in leash and collar training. When using leash and collar training, the dog must be trained to trust the handler and accept his or her directions without question. In order for the dog to be fully trained, the handler must demonstrate the ability to place the dog into a posture or position he or she does not want to take. This does not mean using force, but it does generally require some level of physical manipulation. This manipulation is most easily and safely done using the main tool of leash and collar training – the leash.

It is important for every would be dog trainer to understand that the leash is simply a tool. While the leash is an important tool in this form of training, it is important for the dog trainer to be able to eventually achieve the same results using whatever tools are at hand. Even when the only tools at hand are the owner’s body and skill, the dog should be willing to obey. Creating a leader/follower relationship between handler and dog is still very important, and it is important to use the leash as a tool and not a crutch. A properly trained dog should be willing to obey whether the leash is present or not. There's no doubt that the topic of dog training tip can be fascinating. If you still have unanswered questions about dog training tip, you may find what you're looking for in the next article.

About The Author

Fritz Blanc is a part time internet marketer who has created many web sites about various subjects. You can visit one of his web sites about dog training tips at: http://dogtrainingtip.blogspot.com Other websites by the same author: http://crystal-meth-addiction.blogspot.com http://bp-visa-007.blogspot.com

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Posted by lucysdoghouse at 02:51 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Dog Training using positive reinforcement techniques is the gentle and humane way to teach your dog the rules. You will be fostering a loving relationship with your dog instead of intimidating and scaring your dog into submission. In this article you will learn the basic steps to teach your puppy or adult dog to sit.

1. Put a leash on your dog so they cannot wonder off while you are working with them.

2. Put some treats in a closed fist so they can smell them but not see them. If your dog sees the treat each time he will learn to only obey when you have food in your hands.

3. With your finger draw an invisible line from the dog’s nose between the eyes to the top of the head as you say sit. The head will move back to follow your hand and therefore push the bottom down to the ground.

4. As soon as the dog’s bottom touches the ground, say “Good Sit” and give them a treat and praise them excitedly.

Below are some Dog Training Tips for successfully training your dog to sit.

1. Keep your bait hand low. While moving your hand over the dogs head, make sure that your hand is not too high or the dog will jump to reach the treats. Your hand should only be a couple of inches over the dogs head.

2. Do not force the dog. Resist the urge to push the dog’s bottom down if they are having a hard time learning how to sit. Just be patient and keep trying to slowly draw a line over their head with the treat and they will learn.

3. The dog will need to be weaned off the treats. During the first week use the treats heavily. During the second week start mixing the treats up giving every other time or every third time while continually using praise and excitement. After about 3 weeks treats will no longer be needed and you will be the only reward your dog will need.

4. Even after you wean off the treats, continue to use the sit hand signal as well as your voice. The benefit of using hand signals and voice commands simultaneously is so when you are in a situation where you cannot use your voice to give your dog some direction, such as talking on the phone, you can give your dog a quiet hand signal without disrupting your phone call.

5. Label your commands. When giving your dog a training command, label the action, not the dog. When your dog sits, tell them good sit, not good dog. Your dog will learn the command faster because they hear the command word again and they are praised for the specific command.

6. Keep training sessions short. If you are training a puppy, keep your training sessions under 10 minutes. It is best to have several short training sessions per day so that your dog will not get distracted.

7. Be consistent. Everyone in the family should be involved with training your dog. Children as well as adults should learn the commands so the dog sees ALL humans as dominate and therefore listens and obeys everyone equally.

About The Author

Jennifer Ivey is a positive reinforcement http://dogtrainingbehavior.blogspot.com who writes articles on many dog related topics. Read more of Jennifer's articles at http://www.bestdogarticles.com

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Posted by lucysdoghouse at 02:49 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Of course, we all know that dogs are dogs, not people. However, when it comes to certain behaviors, humans are sometimes offended or embarrassed by their pets!

Some of the things that dogs do may seem ill mannered to humans, but to dogs they’re simply natural behaviors that help them to explore their world, learn about others and establish relationships. Things such as sniffing one another’s private areas, mounting one another and wrestling with other dogs, sometimes accompanied by play biting and growling can seem rather off-putting to humans.

However, since dogs use these behaviors to establish their pecking order with other dogs, it’s usually best to “leave well enough alone.” When humans interfere by stopping their dog from interacting with other dogs in these ways, it can serve to exacerbate the situation, making the more dominant dog feel even more the need to assert his leadership.

For example, when dogs sniff each other at body parts that humans find offensive, it’s because they use their sense of smell to get to know one another. With their strong olfactory abilities, dogs can learn a lot about one another through scent alone. Questions such as male or female?, leader or follower?, and young or old? are all able to be answered by dogs through sniffing.

Mounting one another is another behavior that humans sometimes find offensive, but is natural for dogs. Since dogs are pack animals, they use shows of dominance or submission to establish the pecking order between themselves and others. It can be easier to let the dogs work things out on their own once you understand that the dogs do not intend to procreate (unless there is a female in heat, in which case, keep them separated!) and are not doing it for recreational reasons.

Another thing to understand is that dominant leadership has nothing to do with size or gender in the dog world. There are plenty of little dogs who have more dominant personalities than larger dogs and vice versa. Nothing you can do will change that.

Once dogs have met one another and have done their “dominance dance,” they’ll usually begin playing together. Just like baby lion cubs will play using mannerisms such as stalking and pouncing, so do dogs play using mannerism of biting, wrestling and growling. As long as things are not escalating into a dog fight (which they usually don’t), there’s no need to interfere by separating the dogs.

Of course, if your dog does things to humans, such as greeting them at the door with an offensive sniff, mounting your children or play biting with humans in ways that are far too rough, some obedience training will be required. While it’s fine to allow dogs to be dominant over their dog friends, it is not acceptable for your dog to consider himself dominant over the humans in the household. Implementing some obedience training and building the amount of respect your dog has for family members should alleviate the issue. If you need help, contact a knowledgeable trainer for assistance.

All in all, when it comes to potentially offensive dog behaviors, understanding that a dog is an animal and this is how they communicate can help alleviate embarrassment when these behaviors are displayed.

Article written by Lori Verni

Lori Verni is a freelance writer, Certified Master Trainer and owner of Best Paw Forward Dog Education in Holly Springs, NC. She also proudly brings you all of the free articles on FreeDogTrainingInfo.com, and has a book available: Everything You Need to Know About House Training Puppies & Adult Dogs. The book can be purchased at www.FreeDogTrainingInfo.com

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Posted by lucysdoghouse at 05:53 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Though there are several dog training techniques, all of them can be categorized by the way they address behavioral issues. Thus, there are two main categories: techniques based on learning theories and techniques based on canine ethology.

The former category focuses on behavior modification, usually disregarding typical and natural behavior of dogs. The latter one focuses on natural dog behavior and often ignores current learning theories.

Dog training techniques based on learning theories

This category comprises techniques that use positive reinforcement, negative reinforcement and punishment as main ways to educate dogs. Since those techniques are very different among each other, they are better organized under three subcategories: traditional dog training, positive training and mixed techniques.

1. Traditional dog training

Traditional dog training was developed to train war dogs and it was successfully used during World War I and World War II. After World War II, this technique gained enormous popularity because of a lot of stories about heroic dogs.

Negative reinforcement and punishment are the main teaching ways of traditional training. Thus, this technique works by physically forcing the dogs to perform a desired behavior, until dogs learn that behavior.

Choke chains, prong collars and shock (electric) collars are common tools in traditional training and all its variants. Also, this kind of training is usually targeted to dog obedience exercises, disregarding behavioral problems.

The main advantage of traditional dog training is the high reliability of the trained behaviors. On the other hand, main disadvantages are potentially dangerous collateral effects, such as fear biting and damages to the dog's trachea.

2. Positive dog training

Positive training was developed under the principles of Skinner's operant conditioning. While it's not a new technique, it didn't get enough attention until the nineties, when Karen Pryor's book "Don't shoot the dog" became a bestseller.

Choke chains, prong collars and shock (electric) collars are not needed in positive training. In addition, training sessions tend to be very fun for dogs as well as for trainers.

Positive reinforcement is the main teaching way of these techniques. Thus, this kind of training is also known as reward-based training, though rewards are not the same as positive reinforcement.

Clicker training could be the most popular of positive training techniques at these days.

Main advantages of positive dog training are: highly reliable trained behaviors; no need to physically force your dog; positive training is fast, fun and simple.

Ironically, the main disadvantage of positive training arises from its simplicity. Many novice trainers get so amazed with how easy and fast is to teach a new behavior that they forget to work on reliability and fluency of those behaviors. Thus, their "finished product" is a half-trained dog.

3. Mixed training techniques

Mixed techniques use both positive and negative reinforcement. Therefore, these techniques are friendlier than traditional training, but not as much as positive training.

Mixed dog training techniques are widely used in tough sports such as Schutzhund, Belgian Ring, Mondioring, etc.

Although trainers who use mixed approaches also use positive reinforcement, they usually avoid using food as a reinforcer. When they have to use a positive reinforcer, they tend to prefer games over food.

Dog training techniques based on canine ethology

Techniques based on canine ethology take into account those behaviors that are natural in dogs, but usually ignore the principles of learning theories. These techniques are also known as "dog whispering".

The fundamental premise of these techniques is that the owner should become the leader of the pack. Thus, the owner will achieve the higher hierarchy in the pack: the alpha dog status.

While these techniques are very popular, their actual efficacy is questionable. Besides, there's no clear standard for these techniques, so the procedures used by one trainer could be very different from those used by another trainer.

Many trainers don't accept that these are actual training techniques. In addition, several of its practitioners don't consider themselves as dog trainers. Instead, they claim they are people who can communicate with dogs by a deep understanding of dog behavior and proper body language.



About The Author Rodrigo Trigosso is a biologist and professional dog trainer. His website http://www.dog-training-tutorial.com provides great info on canine training and behavior.

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Posted by lucysdoghouse at 05:51 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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People frequently ask how a Dog Behaviorist and Dog Obedience Trainer relates to dogs and earns their respect and control . . . and especially that of the Dominant Dog. The first part of that answer is simply stated but difficult for many people to internalize and act upon: To relate to a dog, you must first see and treat him fully as a DOG!

Before you can deal with a dog dominance issue at home or in dog obedience training, you must recognize that dog behavior and dog communication are NOT in line with human psychology. After all, your dog is a CANINE (canis familiaris of the Family Canidae), and not homo sapiens. So he thinks like a canine, not like a person. Your dog responds as one might in a wolf pack, not as a human family member. He or she has real emotions, but they are canine emotions, not human emotions, and not to be mistaken as such.

The basic communication system of dogs involves three critical elements --silence, submission, and leadership -- sometimes referred to generally as the dog whisper technique, with elements of wolf pack communication. We will use these elements in this and subsequent dog training articles about solving Dog Dominance problems. You and I need to understand, read, and use your dog’s own communication system for optimal effectiveness in working with him.

Dogs have an inherent Pack Psychology which governs their thinking and actions. In a pack, there is one dominant one, and the rest are all followers. There is one Alpha male and one Alpha female. To relate to a dog from a position of strength, respect, and control, YOU must be the Alpha Leader, the Pack Leader, and you must use pack psychology and pack communication.

Often we see dominant dogs taken home as young pups, because people are amused by their spirited behavior. Actually, they are usually the first puppies chosen, the proverbial Pick of the Litter. However, if this high-spirited nature is not controlled, then things get out of control quickly . . . becoming worse over time . . . until the situation sometimes becomes dangerous. Dominance can lead to violence.

So you might look for a mature dog, such as a Shelter Dog or Rescued Dog. However, looking for a less dominant pet is not so easy in shelters. There a dog’s true nature is difficult to discern without the aid of an experienced person. While in the shelter, the dog rarely has an area or anything that is under the dog’s control, so there is little opportunity to observe possessiveness and dominance problems.

Nor are dogs cooped up in shelters able to burn off excess energy. It’s very hard for an untrained eye to differentiate between an excited “Please take me home” and the more troublesome “I want to control you!” of the hyper-active, dominant canine.

But the dominance problem quickly becomes evident when you go home and relax, for dominance shows up where perceived weakness is present. For example, petting your dog when it is submissive (e.g., sitting or lying down) is appropriate and desirable, but not when it is in an aggressive or dominant stance.

If you display any sign of soft laxity at the wrong time because of your affection, that will be interpreted by your dog as weakness . . . and then, “Katie bar the door!” With dominant types, you simply cannot afford to let down your guard or to make an exception “just this once” because the pup is so cute.

You must establish and maintain firm, consistent control of the Dominant Dog at all times. These eye-catching, spirited animals are highly intelligent and have great potential, but they also are usually very willful, stubborn, born leaders who seek to control you, other animals, and their environment. They want to rule the roost!

You cannot give them an inch . . . or they will take it, and take it, and take it . . . over and over, time and again. These dogs are persistent!

For example, one friend had an Old English Sheepdog puppy, an Alpha Female about eight months old, who had a very bad reaction to a toxic flea dip back in 1976. As the puppy started to tremor, the frightened owners lifted their darling onto the foot of the bed, both for her comfort and to ease their own backs as they nursed her.

MISTAKE! That one incident led that puppy and her litter-mate to sneak onto the bed whenever possible . . . a pattern the owners never succeeded in terminating for the rest of the dogs’ lives!

Too many owners just coddle the two-and-three month old “babies” and think that puppy training can start later. NO! The intelligent, spirited ones, especially, must be “trained” from day one with consistency, with You clearly as the Master!

Because of their high intelligence, they are ready much earlier than others for more formal types of training, too. Training helps remove boredom and release energy, while giving the prideful animal a proper goal for which to strive, and achievement about which to strut with regal, dignified, proud bearing and the clear satisfaction of pleasing.

DON’T MOVE WITH THEM, YOU LOSE THEM!

I, too, have had a trying personal experience with an aggressive Alpha Pup. I brought home a beautiful Rescued Dog, an eight-week-old retriever puppy from the Humane Society. She turned out to be the most willful and stubborn dog I have ever seen, striving for dominance in all things! There is no way she would have lasted in a “normal” home. However, because of my sheer determination with consistent, proper training, she is becoming a loving, playful, and obedient sweetheart who, without loss of any spunk or pride, nevertheless submits to my command by a mere glance. I am her undisputed Pack Leader.

Still, it wasn’t easy to get her to that state. In great frustration, I eagerly sought the advice of two other trainers with vast puppy experience. So I say to beleaguered Owners of aggressive, dominant puppies and dogs, “Don’t be embarrassed. This can happen to anyone! Never be ashamed to ask for help from a Dog Trainer.” (Just make sure they really understand pack psychology.)

If you have a dog dominance problem, there IS a specific training technique that will work for you, and it centers on FOCUS. It applies the communication system of “silence, submission, and leadership” and is a dog training technique which is effective with most dog dominance issues. [It’s much more effective and pleasant than hitting and yelling!]

So get help with control of the dog dominance behavior, and restore a right relationship with your pet, and peace and harmony in your home!

PawPersuasion © Copyright 2006.



About The Author Expert Author RENA MURRAY is a no-nonsense Dog Obedience Trainer & Dog Behaviorist who publishes Articles, free email Newsletter "PAW PERSUASION POINTERS" & Blog to help you better select, communicate with, train & control your dog. Catering to serious dog trainers & dog lovers alike, Rena also provides Dog Products & Dog Behavior Consultations through http://www.pawpersuasion.com

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Posted by lucysdoghouse at 11:25 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Humans play solitaire to keep themselves occupied when they’re alone. Dogs chew. It’s what they do. Actually, chewing is much more important to dogs than solitaire is to humans. Dogs need to chew on things to maintain healthy teeth and gums and good jaw strength. Solitaire will do nothing for your dental hygiene.

Puppies need to chew even more when they are teething (in fact, there are special chew toys that can be dampened and frozen to provide relief for painful gums during this process). So chewing isn’t a problem in itself, but destructive chewing is. Dogs need to learn what they can and cannot chew on, and they are quite capable of doing so when properly taught. Here are four steps every dog owner should take to encourage “constructive chewing.”

1. Prevent. As always the best cure, but dog owners should always dog proof their home, especially with puppies. They can be very creative with what they chew. Anything not removable that has been or is likely to be targeted can be sprayed with a deterrent, such as Bitter Apple.

2. Interrupt. Whenever you are there with your dog, it is important that you actively teach them commands for “leave it” or “drop.” These are given whenever you see them taking something into their jaws that should not be in there. You may have to orchestrate this training process by adding some of the items that you removed in step 1. But that’s what training is all about - setting up safe scenarios in which you can help them differentiate between appropriate and inappropriate behavior. These commands will also work well when you are out with your dog and they want to pick up something dangerous or just foul.

3. Redirect. Here’s where you start teaching your friend which toys belong to them, to chew to pieces if they like (and they will). Immediately after removing the inappropriate item from their clutches, replace it with an appropriate toy. It will take some time to really zero in on a few of your dog’s most favorite things. But as you try lots of different toys to encourage constructive chewing, keep in mind that the best ones are those designed to promote healthy teeth and gums such as dental chew ropes. Also, try to find what are called “active toys,” which give your dog something to do for an extended period of time. For example, “Kong” balls and rubber toys can be stuffed with food, such as peanut butter or whatever they go for. Often dogs are inactive when they are alone because they’re missing you.

5. Praise. The final step is simple but not one to forget.

The good news is that most dogs will grow out of this phase somewhat at the same time as they figure out what’s chewable and what’s not. If your dog’s chewing problem continues, however, it is likely to be an expression of nervous energy (the same goes for excessive licking, of themselves and others). The number one cause of nervous energy for dogs is lack of exercise.

A brisk 15-minute walk is simply not enough for many dogs, barely a warm-up for a Border Collie, and it is important to understand that exercise is different from a play session or outing to the park.

The mistake that a lot of dog owners make, which is an unfortunate function of their busy schedules, is that they pack in two high intensity (15-20 minute) fetch sessions at the beginning and end of the day. True, this is much better than nothing, but the fact that the dog goes more or less from sleeping to sprinting, then from lying around all day to sprinting again, can cause extra wear and tear on the joints and possibly early arthritis. Like humans, a dog benefits from a decent warm-up and warm-down, and busy owners should do their best to sneak in some longer, less intense exercise sessions.

All the best with it, and don’t chew out your dog in the meantime.



About The Author Martin Olliver is a proud member of the Kingdom of Pets team (http://www.kingdomofpets.com). For more great articles on chewing and other dog habits, visit: http://kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/articles/dog_training_solutions.php

Keywords: pet meds, dog toys, dog beds, dog collars, pet supplies, dog training, dog bowls

Posted by lucysdoghouse at 11:25 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Dogs can be fun traveling companions, and some people are lucky enough to have friends and family who welcome their furry friend. The majority of dogs love to go on car rides, but there are some who are very afraid and still others who experience motion sickness.

Socialization is the key with fear of riding in the car. You can tell the difference between those who are motion sick and those who are afraid, because the frightened ones will begin to appear anxious before the car even starts to move. Panting, salivating, refusal to get in, scratching at the door and other symptoms can alert you that it’s a socialization problem.

Begin by working with your dog on basic obedience commands, especially the “heel” (walk at my side), “sit” and “down.” Then you’ll be able to use the commands to help your dog to feel more comfortable during the car training exercises.

Next, you’ll need to use lots of patience. For some dogs it can take one day of practice, others may require weeks. With your car doors open (use the back seat if possible), practice simply “heeling” your dog in one door and out the other. Praise lavishly when it’s accomplished. Once your dog is doing this with no problem, work on getting into the car and just sitting there together for a minute or two. If your dog is acting afraid, be sure not to pet him… rather than feeling soothed, your pet will feel as if you’re praising him for being anxious. Instead, tell your dog “no,” and use an obedience command such as “sit” or “down,” followed by praise.

Once your dog is sitting in the car with no problem, gradually increase the exercise so you’re shutting the doors, then turning the car on but not moving, then driving only one block, etc. Use lots of praise when your dog is trying, and remember not to inadvertently reinforce fears.

Another tip is to make sure you bring your dog to “fun” places sometimes, so he doesn’t think he’s always going to the vet or groomer when he goes in the car. Some suggestions include the pet store, the bank drive-thru (they often give a dog treat), a stroll downtown, the park or even a trip to your vet or groomer… but not to have anything done… just to get petted and have a treat.

If your dog’s problem seems to be motion sickness rather than fear, you should still do the above exercises, and also be sure not to feed or water your dog for 2 hours before your trip. Having your dog sit on the floor of the car rather than up on the seat can sometimes help, and be sure to keep a window open a little for fresh air. If you have a very long road trip planned, and you’ve already done the training exercises, you may want to speak with your veterinarian about whether medication would be appropriate.

Article written by Lori Verni

Lori Verni is a freelance writer, Certified Master Trainer and owner of Best Paw Forward Dog Education in Holly Springs, NC. She also proudly brings you all of the free articles on FreeDogTrainingInfo.com, and has a book available: Everything You Need to Know About House Training Puppies & Adult Dogs. The book can be purchased at www.FreeDogTrainingInfo.com

Keywords: dog toys, dog beds, dog collars, pet supplies, dog training, dog health

Posted by lucysdoghouse at 11:24 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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A dog that growls at and/or bites its owner does so for some reason, even if the behavior appears to be "unreasonable" to the owner. If your dog displays aggressive behavior towards you, for the safety and welfare of you, your family and your dog, it's important to find out why as quickly as possible.

Call your vet right away and schedule an appointment for a complete medical examination. Talk with your vet about testing your dogs hormonal balance, neurophysiologic functions and allergies. The test results may reveal the underlying cause. This has been especially helpful in dogs that have mood swings.

When growling or biting has erupted as a consequence of scolding or punishment for behavior such as chewing, jumping, general unruliness, or overprotection of food, these problems must be dealt with swiftly and firmly to correct the aggression it is initiating.

As the dogs owner, you must understand that your dog growls or bites at you as a result of defensive feelings. Even the dog that growls when ordered off the couch is reacting defensively, as it feels its dominance status has been threatened.

If scolding and punishment provoke aggression, your dog is reacting to a perceived threat to its physical safety. In either of these situations, your own threatening behavior may be producing negative results.

If the results of a medical examination show no signs of a medical condition that would be causing this behavior, you will have to examine your own behavior closely to determine what you are doing to make your dog feel threatened.

If you can't hire the services of a professional, I highly recommend you pick up a copy of Secrets Of A Professional Dog Trainer by Adam Katz for indepth instructions on dog behavior training. This ebook is available on my blog. http://dog-behavior-training.blogspot.com/

About The Author

Heather Colman loves to spend quality time with her dog Gibson. She has worked closely with various professional dog trainers in the past 2 years to work through many of the behavior problems generated by Gibson's previous owner. Visit Heather's blog for more tips on dog behavior training. http://dog-behavior-training.blogspot.com/

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Posted by lucysdoghouse at 05:32 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Chewing is an issue which occurs most often with puppies, but sometimes adult dogs have this problem too.

Puppies tend to explore the world with their mouths. A shoe with an interesting odor?… Let’s see what it tastes like! However, while chewing and exploring are normal for puppies, humans should not simply accept the behavior.

Whenever you catch your puppy chewing something, you must tell him “No”, and replace the item with an appropriate chew toy. Follow with lavish praise. Be sure to keep dog toys available at all times, and provide an interesting variety. It can also help to rotate your dog toys so he doesn’t become bored with them.

Adult dogs with chewing problems sometimes simply never learned that chewing things is wrong. Other times it can be caused by owners who have inadvertently taught the dog that chewing household items is okay!

For example, if your dog chews a shoe and you decide to let him keep it, your dog may think that all items in your home with that smell (including your new shoes) are fair game. Therefore, be sure to only give your pet toys that are intended for a dog. Never give old slippers, the kids’ stuffed animals, etc.

If your dog or puppy is having chewing problems only when you’re not home, the problem could be separation anxiety. This type of chewing is done out of nervousness about being home alone. Often, the damage is done to doors, furniture, or window treatments. Read an additional article about separation anxiety here.

It’s very important that you don’t correct your dog or puppy for chewing unless you caught him in the act. Correction after the fact can lead to much more serious behavior problems.

No matter which reason your dog or puppy is chewing, working on some dog obedience training can help immensely. For more serious problems you may need to work with an educated dog trainer. Between obedience, supervision, and confining your dog in a crate when you’re not at home, you can have a trustworthy pet who only chews his toys!

This article is written by Lori Verni

Lori Verni is a freelance writer, Certified Master Trainer and owner of Best Paw Forward Dog Education in Holly Springs, NC. She also proudly brings you all of the free articles on FreeDogTrainingInfo.com, and has a book available: Everything You Need to Know About House Training Puppies & Adult Dogs. The book can be purchased at www.FreeDogTrainingInfo.com

Keywords: dog toys, dog beds, dog collars, pet supplies

Posted by lucysdoghouse at 05:31 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Often it’s ok for a dog to jump on its owner, but awkward and even harmful when he jumps up on others, such as other family members or friends. This can be confusing for the dog, but a well-trained dog can quite happily learn never to jump on strangers, and when it’s ok and to jump on you (playtimes, for example). A dog jumping up on a child can be a frightening experience, especially when the dog becomes taller than the child when he rears up. A dog jumping up on strangers is always a bad look.

During greetings, always try to prevent your dog from jumping up in the first place. Put your hand (or both hands) out in front of you and hold still. A trained dog will be able to respond to this gesture, without any verbal commands, and realize that it should stay down. If he gets down on his own accord, then start using the “down” command to accompany the behavior. Ideally, you always want the dog to perform the correct behavior first before using a verbal command, so they have some action to associate it with.

For most, this type of prevention does not work right away, especially for puppies that lack enough formal training. You’ll have to know how to react when your dog starts jumping up. Mostly, this involves what NOT to do. For example, don’t be over-enthusiastic during your greetings. This obviously reinforces the behavior. And do not forcefully push the dog away from you. They interpret this as a form of playful engagement. The result: dogs always push back. It’s instinctive (and the same principle is the reason for the majority of cases where dogs pull on leashes - they are encouraged by the force exerted on them).

Turn your back and ignore the dog. And calmly ask him to sit. When he has calmed down, and ideally responded to the sit command, then you can turn and greet the dog. If it starts jumping again, repeat the process. Be patient, this is where you get to send a message mainly through your body language, and the dog will surely take many trials to receive it. Often it is recommended that you stick your knee up and put the dog off balance, which is almost a reflex reaction. Turning your back and stonewalling is better if you can manage.

One of the absolute best suggestions I can give is to always greet a calm dog “at its level.” Squat or kneel down, and open your palms open toward the dog. This is a non-threatening posture that dogs very quickly associate will impending praise. We all like when others try to meet us on our level. Dogs are no different in this respect. But make sure they earn it first!

Avoidance is your best bet when introducing new people into your house. If you have established your position as the dominant member of your pack, then your dog should never be allowed to position himself in front of you when the front door opens. Time for you to become the Alpha Dog if that’s the case, which is means more training for you.



About The Author Martin Olliver is a proud member of the Kingdom of Pets team (http://www.kingdomofpets.com). For more great articles on problem jumping, visit: http://kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/articles/jumping_dog.php

Keywords: pet meds, dog toys, dog beds, dog collars, pet supplies, dog training, dog bowls

Posted by lucysdoghouse at 05:30 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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When you come home to find holes all over your lawn, and you have a dog, there may be a correlation there. But don't bother trying to confront your dog after the fact. Punishment after the fact is widely known as the least effective and potentially most damaging form of dog training on earth. Even if you bring your dog to the spot, hold them by the scruff of the neck, and scold them while you direct their head deep into their handiwork, they won’t have any idea what all the fuss is about.

Instead, take a deep breath, and complete your after work wind-down routine. Then, calmly return to the back yard to locate your dog, with the intention of asking a few questions about their habit of excavating your property.

If you are unable to locate your dog, AND the holes in your lawn are all found right along the bottom of your fence line, then you may not need to ask the first question, which is, "Are you trying to escape?" If your pet is not "fixed" (neutered or spayed), then they may be entertaining their roaming instinct. They will return, and they may even bring a whole family with them when they do.

Another possibility is that your dog is digging to freedom in an attempt to find you. If your dog is near or even somewhere on your property when you return from a period of absence, they may in fact have separation anxiety issues, which you’ll have to treat directly. Once you do, the digging will be an afterthought.

If your dog is there, your next question to ask is, "Are you getting too hot back here when I’m away?" We all know that dogs pant when it’s hot. But they also like to burrow, especially when there is not a spot of shade in sight. So you’ll need to rule this out as motivating factor for your dog's digging, and make sure they have a place to stay cool.

Lastly, you’ll have to ask your dog, "Are you burying your stuff?" This is simply an old habit that stems from the fact that their ancestors often killed more than they could eat in a sitting. This habit may be tough to break, but changing the range of treats you leave with your dog when away, for instance, a massive juicy bone may be a great treat for your dog when you're around, but might be something you don't leave with them when you're gone.

Nonetheless, you may have to change the dog's access areas, or fence off an area that you’d like to keep for the kids' soccer pitch. You can also try setting up a dirt area or sandbox where digging is allowed and encouraged. Many dogs are wild about sand, and you can even attract them to the area by burying treats in the sandbox. I’ve seen this work well.

In the grand scheme of dog obedience problems, however, this should be more of a nuisance than anything. Often I remind dog owners that it’s more than likely their lawn will forgive the dog, and that having a healthy and happy pet sometimes comes with the sacrifice of a perfect lawn.

About The Author Martin Olliver is a proud member of the Kingdom of Pets team http://www.kingdomofpets.com. For more great articles on problems with digging dogs, visit: http://kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/articles/digging_dog.php

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Posted by lucysdoghouse at 09:42 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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House training is one of those issues that every dog owner must grapple with. In most cases house training is the first major milestone in the relationship between owner and dog, and it can sometimes be difficult and confusing for owner and dog alike.

The best house training procedures are those that use the dog’s own instincts to the owner’s advantage. These strategies take into account the dog’s reluctance to soil the spots where he eats and sleeps. This is the concept behind den training and crate training. Dogs are very clean animals, and in nature they always avoid using their dens as toilet areas. These kinds of natural training methods generally work very well, for both puppies and older dogs. Naturally, older, larger dogs will need a larger area for their den, and crate training is generally best used for puppies and small dogs.

When house training a dog or a puppy, however, it is important to pay close attention to the signals the dog is sending. It is also important to be consistent when it comes to feeding times, and to provide the dog with ready access to the toilet area you establish on a regular basis.

It is important as well to never try to rush the process of house training. While some dogs are naturally easier to train, most puppies and adult dogs will experience at least one or two slip ups during the house training process. When these accidents occur, it is important to not get mad and punish the dog. Accidents during house training usually mean that the owner is trying to move too fast, or that the dog has been left alone for too long. In this case, it is best to just take a step back and start the process again.

It is also important for the owner to reward the dog enthusiastically when it does its business in the appointed area. The dog should learn to associate doing its business in its toilet area with good things like treats, rewards and praise.

During the house training process, the den area starts out very small, often as small as half of a small room in the beginning. As the dog learns to control his bladder and bowels better, and the owner learns to anticipate the dog’s toilet needs, the den area can be slowly expanded. It is important not to make the den area too large too soon. The den area must be expanded slowly in order for the house training process to move along smoothly.

It is important for the dog to be properly introduced to its den. Many dogs, particularly those who have never been confined before, such as those who have spent their lives as outdoor dogs, may react to the den area as if it is a prison, and constantly whine, cry and try to escape the den. It is important that the dog learn to accept its den as a home and not a cage.

One problem many dog owners overlook when house training a dog is that of boredom. Boredom is actually the root cause of many behavior problems in dogs, including chewing and other destructive behaviors. Boredom can also be the root cause of problems with house training. Dogs that are bored often consume large amounts of water during the day, and this excess water consumption can lead to the need to urinate often, even in its den area. Since soiling the den area goes against the dog’s nature, he can quickly become confused and frightened, thereby setting the house training program back even further.

To prevent the dog from becoming bored when you are away from home, be sure to provide him with lots of different kinds of toys, as well as a safe and secure place to sleep. In addition, a vigorous period of play time can help the dog sleep while you are away. In addition, playing with the dog in its den area will help him bond with this area and recognize it as a safe, secure home.

About The Author

Burt Cotton http://www.dogtrainingnews.org

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Posted by lucysdoghouse at 09:41 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Puppies have a physical need to chew! It all has to do with the teething process. Just like a human baby, puppies have a great need to mouth and chew. This begins around three months of age. During this time, if your puppy doesn't have somthing to chew on, he will look for something. A puppy can entertain himself for hours if he has something to knaw on.

Instead of waiting on a huge problem to start, control your puppy's impulse by doing these:

1. Always know where your pup is and what he is doing. Treat him like a baby.

2. Make sure that all socks, shoes, books, electrical cors, etc. are picked up off the floor. Put valueables away temporarily.

3. If you have to leave him, upt him in his crate.

4. Make sure that what you have in his crate is allowed to be chewed. Use a meat scented nylon bone as his chewie.

5. Put your scent on his chew bone before you leave him alone. He can then smell your scent and be comforted by it.

6. Start preventing him from chewing by grabbing the scruff of his nec and gently shaking him whenever he is chewing a forbidden item. In nature, this is what his mother would do.

7. Make sure your pup gets plenty of exercise. This will help your pup from getting bored and starting destructive behavior.

8. If you have to take an object from your pup, do so gently and praise him when he gives it to you.

Puppies must chew, so keep a close eye on the little fellows and provide them with all their needs. So many times we lose a shoe or a coffee table leg because we have neglected to do the steps above. Just try over and over until he gets it right. Actually, another deterent is to slap a newspaper down beside the puppy when he begins to chew. They hate the noise and will associate it with a no no.

There are so many different ways to cope with your puppy's chewing. Have plenty of patience and provide him with all the neccessary toys he needs to keep him occupied and away from your things.



About The Author Mary Reid lives in South Carolina. She has done research on all types of dog related supplies and natural dog food diets. At the time of this writing she owns two beautiful Labrador Retrievers, one black and one chocolate. You can find more articles at her webpage http://www.all-natural-pet-and-more.com . She also has a great site on Organic Food, Skincare and Supplements found at http://www.yourorganicchoices.com.

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Posted by lucysdoghouse at 09:39 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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One of the key principles of dog training is the principle of “conditioned response.” The idea is that you can set up your dog’s environment in such a way that it learns to abandon its destructive behavior through its own mistakes rather than by your instruction. Below are two common examples of problem dog behaviors and how the princple of "conditioned response" can be used to resolve them.

1. My dog is digging up my yard. How can I stop this destructive behavior? First, you must purchase some chicken wire from your local hardware store and some styptic powder from you local pet store. Before you begin, you must observe your dog’s favorite digging spots and pinpoint them in your mind. Then, you must remove your dog from the yard, and you must not allow it to watch you as you set up its environment. Cut about a 4 by 4 foot section of chicken wire and plant it under the dirt in all the locations where you dog likes to dig. Once you’re finished, release your dog and wait for the conditioned response. More than likely, your dog will go back to the locations where it dug before and proceed to dig as usual. Except now, it’s going to learn a novel lesson. Namely, that digging is going to cause it serious discomfort and pain. Once your dog associates the condition (digging) with the negative response (pain) it will automatically stop its destructive digging habit. There is, however, one drawback to this technique. If you have an aggressive digger, then you should monitor your dog for any cuts or bruises. That’s where the styptic powder comes in. If you notice a cut in your dog’s paws, gently pour the styptic powder on the cut and allow it to cauterize the bleeding. Within a matter of days, you can conditon your dog to abandon its destructive digging habit by using the principle of "conditioned response."

2. My dog chews my furniture, my shoes, and my valuable belongings. What can I do to end this destructive behavior? Go to your local pet store, and purchase a spray bottle of bitter apple. Remove your dog from your house and do not allow it to see you set up its environment. Spray your valuables (i.e. furniture, shoes, and socks) with bitter apple and place them in locations that your dog can easily access. Then allow it to come in and let the trap do the rest. As usual, your dog will go back to its old habit and start to chew its favorite shoe or furniture. But now, it’s going to get a bitter surprise. Your dog will associate the condition (chewing) with the negative response (bad taste) and it will stop its destructive chewing habit. It's important to remember, however, that all dogs need to chew, so you must repeat this process a second time. Now, you must place your dog’s favorite chew toys next to the items that were sprayed with bitter apple. This time, your dog will be reconditioned to chew its own toys rather than your valuable possessions. Thus, by conditioning your dog, you can positively reinforce a good habit (chewing designated toys) over an undesirable one (chewing your valuable possessions). As you can see, by applying the principle of “conditioned response” you can teach your dog exactly what you want without ever getting frustrated with the training process.

About The Author

Armen T. Ghazarians offers advice and articles for those interested in training their dogs like the professionals. His blog http://www.newdogtrainingsecrets.com

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Posted by lucysdoghouse at 05:33 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Named in honor of genius Leonardo da Vinci, Leo marks a renaissance in dog toy design! On its own Leo is a great bouncing, fetching, tugging and challenging treat-dispensing toy. You can also link multiple Leo toys together! When the dog toys are connected, the treats inside can move from one toy to another. Design puzzles specifically for your dog's individual problem-solving level. Completely hollow, and made from a durable and irresistibly chewy space-age material, Leo is loads of fun. Large, medium, and small dogs love playing with Leo! Leo comes in "Regular" for medium to soft chewers, and "Tough" for medium+ chewers.

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Posted by lucysdoghouse at 05:31 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Potty training a dog is one of the most frustrating things you will have to do. Take heart in the fact that once your dog gets the potty training, you won't have to teach it again. In many ways, potty training can be rewarding too. Not only can you help your pets to stop making messes on your favorite carpeting, but you can develop a strong relationship of trust and bonding with them to.

Here are 5 steps to make potty training successful in your home.

1.Use a crate. Crate training is very effective. A crate is used to allow your pet to have a place to sleep and teaches them to control their bladder. They won't soil their bedding. Then, when it is time to get up and go out, you can easily do just that. The dog learns from the start that you control potty time.

2.After meals, give your pet 15 minutes and then take them out. Food is a trigger not only to eat but also to go. When it comes to potty training success, allow your pet to get outside when the urge is approaching. What's more is that you shouldn't leave food out. Put it down for them at the designated time and allow them to eat for 15 minutes to 30 minutes and remove the bowl. Soon he will learn and that again allows you to control potty time.

3.Pick a potty spot. Select the area of your yard that you want your pet to go in. Take them to that spot every time to go. This will help your puppy to learn that when he needs to go, he needs to come here. What's more is that the smell of urine is yet another trigger to your pet to go.

4.Don't reward them with food. Remember that rewards need to be emotional, and therefore it is more successful to give them a reward of a patting and rub down then it is for you to hand them a treat. Also, treats are food which triggers potty time again!

5.Reward success, but don't punish accidents. Although you will be angry and you will want to punish your pet, your pet does not see this as a bad thing. He sees it as attention. He also can become aggressive as well as not like to be around you. Dogs don't relate their potty mistake to the punishment you are given them. Instead, ignore them when they do something wrong. Don't speak to them or interact with them.

Caring for your dog is hard work, but when it comes to potty training, success can and will happen when you install these five tips into your program.



About The Author Michael Lewis is an editor at http://www.clearlypets.com where you can find more articles about dog training.

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Posted by lucysdoghouse at 01:50 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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On the Popular TV series “COPS” they play a song which says, in part, “Bad boys, bad boys, whatcha gonna do, whatcha gonna do when they come for you?” Many people bring home an adorable, cute puppy that eventually grows into a dog. Without proper training, some of those dogs become destructive and eventually the owners shrug their shoulders and say “Bad Dog, Bad Dog, whatcha gonna do?” Hopefully, those people will read articles like this one, “Bad Dog, Bad Dog, Whatcha Gonna Do? Part 1,” and others like them before they do the unthinkable and call the “Dog Police” to take their beloved pet to the pound! In “Bad Dog, Bad Dog, Whatcha Gonna Do? Part 1” we explained the “Dog Pack” instinct, and the “Alpha Dog” mentality, and gave suggestions on how to “reprogram” your dog so that he/she knows that you are the Alpha dog. You can find that article in the Dog Articles Feature at K-9 Outfitters, A Division of Damascus Road Enterprises - www.Damascus-Road-Enterprises.com. In addition to those “Alpha Dog” techniques, there are other things you can do to help alleviate your “bad dog behavior.” This article will teach you ways to “deprogram” your misbehaving dog so you can retrain him properly and thus facilitate a more harmonious relationship between family and pet.

But before we proceed, if you suffer from “bad dog syndrome” with your family pet, make sure there isn’t an underlying medical condition. Take your dog to the vet, explain your problem, and ensure he/she is healthy, and doesn’t suffer from dental, intestinal, digestion, parasitic, or other problems. Once you find that your dog is indeed healthy, implement the following suggestions.

1. Read other articles, magazines, ezines, and books on dogs, training and behavior. The more you know the better trainer you’ll be.

2. Be consistent. Just like a child, your dog will notice your inconsistencies, and will “test your mettle” by pushing the boundaries to determine who is really in control. Do it the same way every time.

3. Earn your dog’s respect. Be firm and fair in training and discipline. Never resort to violence. Positive reinforcement techniques have always proven the more successful training method. Your dog’s submission to you should always be out of respect, not fear.

4. Spend quality time with your dog. Interact with your dog. Quite often, the cause of misbehavior in dogs is similar to that in children. They are simply looking for QUALITY TIME, ATTENTION and LOVE. Remember all the love and attention you gave that sweet, adorable puppy? Well, your adult dog still craves that same love and attention. Just be careful when giving that attention to a problem dog, to always retain your alpha status.

5. During training sessions, always maintain eye contact with your dog until he turns away. That way he knows you are the master and he is submissive to you. I once maintained eye contact with a strong-willed Brittany for 12 minutes before he finally looked away. Demand your dog’s attention during short training sessions. (A dog’s attention span is a maximum of ten to fifteen minutes). As examples, command your dog to heel, and then look at you before commencing a walk. Or make your dog sit or lie down before getting treats.

6. Give your dog plenty of exercise. Take her for a thirty minute walk – the exercise will do you good, give her the attention she deserves, and tire her out so she prefers to rest instead of wreaking havoc! Dogs are a bundle of bounding energy. They can’t help it, God wired them that way! Give them an outlet for that energy. If you live in the woods like I do, let them out to run and play. (However, I always pen them up at night either outside in a fence with dog houses, or I kennel them inside in cages and kennel crates with crate pads or beds). Take your dog to a park, or better yet, one of those fancy new dog parks where dogs are allowed to play and socialize. Let your dog out in a fenced yard, or if you don’t have or don’t like a fenced yard, get an electronic fence and containment system, so your dog knows the boundaries of where they can and can’t go safely. K-9 Outfitters, A Division of Damascus Road Enterprises - www.Damascus-Road-Enterprises.com has some great inside and outside electronic dog containment systems, kennel crates, cages, pads, and beds.

7. Feed your dog a high protein, well balanced diet. Sometimes, dog misbehavior is simply a result of hunger and/or malnutrition. I suggest looking for food with meat and rice as the first ingredients, rather than corn meal and meat by-products. I also suggest a protein content of 24-30% and fat content of 10-18%. This will ensure a strong, healthy dog with a shiny coat.

8. Remove temptation. Put trash cans and people food out of the dog’s reach. If you have a destructive dog, put him in the yard or in a kennel crate or cage while you are at work or gone from the house. If you let him out to “do his business” in the morning before you leave for work, he will be fine in an appropriately sized kennel cage or crate with pillow pad until you return. If needed, you can find sizing guidelines and the appropriate kennel crates, cages, carriers, pads, beds, and other supplies at K-9 Outfitters, A Division of Damascus Road Enterprises - www.Damascus-Road-Enterprises.com.

9. If needed, use appropriate training tools. Although choke collars should be a thing of the past because of the possible danger of injury to your dog’s larynx, an electronic collar is a humane training tool that can provide an appropriate negative “signal,” followed by your positive reinforcement for right behavior. With proper use, in a short time just wearing the collar brings appropriate good behavior. Very few things are more disturbing to a dog lover that seeing your beloved pet run out into the street and get hit by a car, or watching your $1000 bird dog run over the hill never to be seen again. However, if you know your limitations and feel you cannot handle the job yourself, you can find many reputable dog trainers who specialize in behavior problems. Your local vet can probably assist you if needed.

10. Finally, be patient. Positive training and dog behavior modification takes time. Your dog will soon begin to behave in a more positive manner if you follow these helpful suggestions. Hopefully, these ideas and suggestions, along with a better understanding of who your dog is, will soon move you from saying “Bad Dog, Bad Dog, Whatcha Gonna Do?” to saying, “Good Dog, Good Dog, Oh How I Love You!”

You can find all the AWESOME products you need for training and spoiling your special dog at K-9 Outfitters, a Division of Damascus Road Enterprises – www.Damascus-Road-enterprises.com.

About The Author

Danny Presswood is a retired US Army Combat (Airborne) Chaplain. He and his wife Cheri live in the wooded Ozarks hills of SW MO, where he can be reached at BlessedByCalvary@aol.com or (417) 461-0800. Presently working on his Doctorate, Danny writes the Dog Articles Feature K-9 Outfitters, A Division of Damascus Road Enterprises http://www.Damascus-Road-Enterprises.com K-9 Outfitters offers a plethora of AWESOME discount, luxury, unique, and Handmade in the USA Online Dog Supplies.

Keywords: pet meds, dog toys, dog beds, dog collars, pet supplies, dog training, dog bowls

Posted by lucysdoghouse at 01:48 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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On a recent episode of “America’s Funniest Home Videos,” (AFV) one of the top three submissions for the $10,000 prize was a video of the “aftermath” of destruction done to a home by the family’s pet dog. This destructive dog had torn the door off an end table, ripped the frame completely off a doorway, destroyed a patio door screen and frame, shredded carpeting, broken glassware, and had literally “eaten” a three foot by four foot hole in the wall – destroying sheetrock, insulation, and framing in the process. I was horrified and appalled as I watched the video and listened to the mixture of giggles and gasps from the viewing audience. It was as if the poor, unsuspecting family shrugged their shoulders and said “Bad Dog, Bad Dog, Whatcha Gonna Do?”

The more appropriate question, however, is “My dog, my dog, WHY do you do what you do?” The answer to that question is not a simple one. Entire books have been written concerning “bad dog behavior.” And the truth is that every dog is different, and therefore, there is no “pat answer” for every situation. However, a basic understanding of “Who dogs are, and How they behave” will lead us to some appropriate suggestions on how to handle difficult and domineering dogs. You can find this article, along with “Bad Dog, Bad Dog” Part 2, in the Dog Articles Feature at K-9 Outfitters, A Division of Damascus Road Enterprises. But before we proceed, if you suffer from “bad dog syndrome” with your family pet, make sure there isn’t an underlying medical condition. Take your dog to the vet, explain your problem, and ensure he/she is healthy, and doesn’t suffer from dental, intestinal, digestion, parasitic, or other problems. Once you find that your dog is healthy, the following information should prove helpful.

Dogs are, by nature, pack animals. Pack animal behavior is instinctive from before dogs were domesticated and lived in the wild. Every pack has a hierarchy, and every animal in the pack has duties, responsibilities, and expectations. Since your dog doesn’t live in the wild, he/she assumes you, your family, and other household pets make up the “pack.” Many times, “bad dog behavior” is a result of confusion over “Alpha Dog Status” or "Alpha Dog Mentality." You must establish that you are the “Alpha” dog in the pack. You must also establish that other family members, to include the children, all rank higher in the pack than your dog does. There are many ways to effectively put your dog in his proper pack ranking. Here are a few suggestions, or rules, for handling domineering dogs, and establishing pack rankings:

1. When you enter the house, make sure your dog enters last, even if you must put her on a leash. You’ll find great leashes, harnesses, collars and leads at K-9 Oufitters, A Division of Damascus Road Enterprises. http://www.Damascus-Road-Enterprises.com

2. Alpha dogs want the run of the entire house. Make sure certain areas of the home are out of bounds for the dog. That may include certain bedrooms, the laundry room, bathrooms, or the den. This helps the dog know you are master of the house, not him.

3. Alpha dogs occupy high traffic areas, like hallways and entryways. Don’t step over or go around the dog, nudge the dog and tell her to move out of your way, and make sure she does so. This lets her know who owns the space and who is in charge.

4. Don’t allow your dog to DEMAND your attention. Dogs usually do this by climbing on your lap, or by nudging your hand or arm. Make the dog sit, lie down, etc., and then give lavish praise and attention. Remember, you control when you give your dog attention, affection, and praise.

5. Exercise control over your dog’s possessions. Take away all her toys, then give her a command, and when she obeys, give her the toy as a treat. After she plays with it for awhile, take it away again.

6. When you come home, make your dog greet you first. Ignore him until he does. He must be submissive to you, not the other way around.

7. Establish dog eating times. In the pack, the Alpha dog always eats first, and then the other dogs eat. Make sure the family eats first, followed by the dog. If you must feed the dog first, pretend to eat something first, then feed your dog. Leave the dog’s food out for 10-15 minutes, then take it up, whether the dog is finished or not. She will learn quickly to eat when fed.

8. Always stroke (pet) your dog around the head, neck, and shoulders. These are vulnerable areas for the dog, and shows that you are superior. Be careful not to stroke your dog around the chest, because this puts him in the dominating position and undermines your authority as alpha dog.

9. Don’t allow your dog to sleep in your bed! I know that’s a tough one for some folks, but believe me, it’s best for all concerned. The best thing to do is provide the dog with her own cage, crate, or bed. Put it in your bedroom if that helps you, but do it. Dogs “Kennel” by nature. They like a safe, snug place they can call their own. You can find a wide variety of kennels, cages, crates, and beds at K-9 Outfitters, A Division of Damascus Road Enterprises. http://www.Damascus-Road-Enterprises.com

Your dog is your pet. Ultimately, all he/she really wants is your love and affection (i.e. time together). Hopefully, these ideas and suggestions, along with a better understanding of who your dog is and the role he plays in the family relationship, will soon move you from saying “Bad Dog, Bad Dog, Whatcha Gonna Do?” to saying, “Good Dog, Good Dog, Oh How I Love You!” By the way, the “Destructive Dog” video did not win a prize on AFV, although I’m sure the family could have used the money for repairs. Following our guidelines would prove a lot less expensive and would make for a much more harmonious family and pet relationship. You can find all the AWESOME products you need for training and spoiling your special dog at K-9 Outfitters, a Division of Damascus Road Enterprises. www.Damascus-Road-Enterprises.com.

About The Author

Danny Presswood is a retired US Army Combat (Airborne) Chaplain. He and his wife Cheri live in the wooded Ozarks hills of SW MO, where he can be reached at BlessedByCalvary@aol.com or (417) 461-0800. Presently working on his Doctorate, Danny writes the Dog Articles Feature K-9 Outfitters, A Division of Damascus Road Enterprises http://www.Damascus-Road-Enterprises.com K-9 Outfitters offers a plethora of AWESOME discount, luxury, unique, and Handmade in the USA Online Dog Supplies.

Keywords: pet meds, dog toys, dog beds, dog collars, pet supplies, dog training, dog bowls

Posted by lucysdoghouse at 01:01 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Adopting a dog from an animal shelter is very rewarding for the new owner, as more and more dogs are put to sleep if they are unable to find a home after a certain length of time. You are rewarded in the way that you have saved a dogs life, and additionally rewarded the animal shelter by helping them feed and look after the other dogs, and also that they have managed to save a dogs life and find it a new loving home. When you purchase one from a shelter, it should have had the necessary injections, be checked for diseases and parasites and the new owner should be informed of the dog’s temperament and past history. This should come as standard.

The dogs at a shelter are not always strays and abandoned dogs, but quite a high percentage are handed in by the dog’s owners, for many reasons. This is beneficial for the new dog’s owner as they have more information about its history, whereas abandoned or strays have no history. New owners should be informed of the dog’s behavior with children, if it is a noisy dog, and also whether or not the dog needs training, and if so pointed in the right direction for a dog training school.

Animal shelters provide a valuable service to the community by helping to keep the streets free of abandoned pets, and are mainly funded by the public, but the majority is voluntary. Adopting a dog, not only saves the life of one dog, but also allows space for another off the streets, potentially saving another dog’s life in the future. With regards to Dog Training, one of the most important outcomes of dog training is to teach your dog that your are his or her master and that you are in control, which in the long round will take a lot of stress from your dog and allow them to lead a healthier and happier lifestyle. This is especially true of older dogs that have got into bad habits. Always carry on teaching your dog after training school, as it is like doing homework, if you do not practice it, you will not know it for the future, and therefore all of that hard work and time will have gone to waste.

About The Author

Paul Callis is a long time keeper of dogs, and has put together a very informative resource site on dog training that can be located at http://www.abc-dogtraining.info 1@premieranimation.com

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Posted by lucysdoghouse at 11:06 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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For most people, our relationships with our pets are strong emotional bonds, and behavior problems can be pretty upsetting to deal with. Even more difficult is when a normally sweet, affectionate pet does something uncharacteristic, like biting someone, growling or snapping.

One of the things I’ve noticed in over 11 years of dog training is that due to these emotions, excuses pop up quite readily. Statements are made to the tune of, “He only bit that one guy because he was jogging,” or, “He was afraid that time, so that’s why he did it.”

I can safely say that if your dog is properly socialized and not the least bit aggressive, the chances of having a one-time “freak” occurrence such as this would be highly unlikely. However, as a trainer (and also a parent, neighbor, friend, etc.), I also know that more than one “freak” incident is not a coincidence. It’s a behavior problem.

I’m often amazed at how frequently people will look the other way and not do something about their dog having a problem. I understand that it’s upsetting. I realize that dog training costs money and takes time to practice. But in the scheme of things, it seems far more costly, both emotionally and financially, to endure incidents such as bitten people, police at the door, angry neighbors and more.

Working with your pet on a behavior problem now can prevent much aggravation from occurring in the future. In addition, stopping the problem before there are any more incidences could be a matter of life or death for your dog.

Does this sound overly dramatic? It’s not. The cold, hard truth is that with enough reported problems, your dog could cause you to pay fines, could be taken from you by authorities and could even result in euthanasia.

Perhaps you’ve worked with a trainer before but your dog seems to be still having a problem. Did you follow the methods recommended? Did you practice and make the training a way of life? Were they educated and experienced?

Has a knowledgeable pet person, such as your vet, groomer, trainer or rescue person warned you that a problem was developing but you didn’t take them seriously?

If any of these things are the case, keep in mind that it’s never too late to work with your dog. Don’t wait for problems to get worse. As difficult as it is to admit there’s a problem, it is far better to take steps and do something about it now.

Whether you work with your dog on your own or with a knowledgeable trainer, taking issues seriously and working on them immediately will surely help prevent more problems from occurring in the future.

Article written by Lori Verni

Lori Verni is a freelance writer, Certified Master Trainer and owner of Best Paw Forward Dog Education in Holly Springs, NC. She also proudly brings you all of the free articles on FreeDogTrainingInfo.com, and has a book available: Everything You Need to Know About House Training Puppies & Adult Dogs. The book can be purchased at www.FreeDogTrainingInfo.com

Keywords: dog toys, dog beds, dog collars, pet supplies, dog training, dog health

Posted by lucysdoghouse at 10:56 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Dogs love to dig, let's face it, it is a very natural and instinctual part of their makeup, and "it is a very enjoyable behavior for them" says Deborah L. Forthman, Ph.D. digging is something that dogs have been doing from the beginning, but there are ways to reduce the amount your dog digs.

Here are 7 different methods to help train your dog not to dig.

1.Before you begin with your dog obedience training on how to stop him from digging, try to figure out exactly what is causing your dog to behave that way. If he is very persistent into digging in one area, you may use the dog training command “leave” while using treats to distract him. You can also distract him by using a particular smell that excites him. These dog behavior modification methods typically work very well.

2. Try not to do any type of gardening and digging when your dog is around because remember that your dog looks up to you and wants to obey you, that being the case when your dog sees you digging and playing in the yard of course he will also think that is what he should be doing.

3. Exercise is a very important aspect of your dog's health, and not only that, the more exercise your dog gets, and the more energy the expends, the less likely that your dog will be able to muster up the energy, or the desire to go digging up your yard. If you find that your dog tends to like to dig at particular times of the day, then make sure you give him plenty of exercise around those times if possible so that he just can't be bothered digging.

4. Make sure that you are more understanding and less scolding with your dogs digging habit, particularly during the winter months. Often during the winter months dogs will dig more than the rest of the year the reasons that these years that your dog has a natural instinct for finding warmer places and dogs sense that by digging, they will get into a warmer area and this is certainly correct. If and when you do notice that your dog is digging more frequently when the temperature is cooler outside, then it is very important to be understanding and not to scold your dog for doing that, but relieve the situation by providing the right environment for him.

5. There are some dogs that absolutely positively can't resist digging, so rather than trying to go against nature and stop them altogether, let's take a different approach and create a special spot for your dog to dig in. Most dog experts agree that for some breeds it is almost impossible to prevent them from digging 100% of the time, and because your dog enjoys digging so much, train him to only dig in his special spot. The area you provide for him to did in doesn't need to be that big, something around three or four foot by six-foot should do the trick nicely.

6. Having your dog neutered or spade is one sure way to reduce their desire to dig because their drive to mate is drastically reduced, and without your dog having a strong desire to mate you almost certainly have a lot less holes in your yard.

7. Be very careful that if you do correct your dog when you catch him digging in the yard that you only do it with warmth and compassion, and that you absolutely must do it at the moment in time that he is digging and that you don't wait for him to stop and then correct him. This will reinforce whatever he is doing with your response, if you wait until he is finished and you scold him then he will get the wrong message.

Instead when you catch him digging try to immediately replace one activity with another, so therefore distract him from his digging and replace it with an enjoyable activity for him to do. If you continually do this it will help modify his behavior and reduce your dogs digging adventures.



About The Author Michael Weber is a passionate dog owner who studies the psychology of dogs, Michael helps people communicate properly with their dogs and to fix dog behavior problems fast. Visit here for Your Free Multi Media Mini Course: http://www.doginfoworld.com

Keywords: pet meds, dog toys, dog beds, dog collars, pet supplies, dog training, dog bowls

Posted by lucysdoghouse at 10:54 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Dogs are considered man's best friend. Throughout the ages and of all animals, dogs have been man's companion. More than companions, dogs serve a variety of functions. There are working dogs (e.g., police dogs) and dogs that are used as guides for the disabled. Farmers and livestock owners use dogs for herding, and some home owners get dogs specifically to guard their property.

Whatever the primary purpose of a particular breed of dog is, it's important that it receive proper training. Many dog training professionals will attest to the importance of having a well-trained dog. You don't have to be a professional dog trainer to train your dog. You can do simple activities to teach your pet how to behave.

Dog training tip #1: Curbing your dog's digging behavior

As a dog owner, you need to understand that dogs are social animals. When they are lonely or alone, dogs resort to digging. Loneliness isn't the only reason dogs dig, though. In some instances, dogs that dig are experiencing some sort of nutrient deficiency. To make up for this condition, dogs oftentimes would eat the dirt they dig. If your dog tends to dig a lot, spend more time with him. It also pays to have your dog checked up to make sure that his health is in good condition.

Dog training tip #2: Potty training your dog

A reward-based method works best when potty training your dog. To use this method, give your dog a treat after it potties in the right place. Following up good behavior with a reward will make it easier for your dog to remember doing good behavior.

Dog training tip #3: Repetition is key

Whenever you are trying to teach your dog something -- whether it's a trick or making your dog obey a command -- repetition is important. Repetition and consistency are keys that will help your dog understand a command. To test if your dog knows a command after so many repetitions, test him without any assistance. Do this at least three consecutive times to make sure that your dog's grasp of a command is not simply a fluke.

Dog training tip #4: Communicating with your dog

When training your dog to follow a certain command or do a certain thing, it's vital that you not just issue the command out. It's also important that you direct your dog how to perform a command or drill as well as correct your dog if he doesn't follow the command properly. Be consistent when you are issuing out commands and trying to teach your dog to develop certain behaviors. For instance, if you are trying to teach your dog not to chew on slippers or shoes, do not praise him one day when you see him chewing on a slipper.

Dog training tip #5: Proper timing in training your dog

It's always best -- and professional dog trainers will recommend this -- to train your dog when it is still a puppy. When it comes to training dogs, it is indeed true that old dogs can't learn new tricks. So start training your dog early.

Dog training tip #6: Let your dog know you're the boss

Dogs are pack animals, which means they follow a hierarchy. Thus, when training your dog, it's important that you establish yourself as the alpha dog (the leader). Your dog needs to understand that he is the submissive being. Avoid showing any fear when your dog snaps back. Doing so will break the established hierarchy you have with your dog. When your dog is doing his exercises, never allow your dog to stop mid-way or not complete the exercise. Firmly let your dog know that it should do what you, the alpha dog, wants him to do.

Dog training tip #6: Act around your dog

Your puppy will naturally want to chew on things so give your puppy an outlet for his chewing urges. You can give your puppy a chew bone to chew. If your puppy tries to chew on you, yelp loudly, fold your arms and ignore your puppy for about ten minutes. When a puppy becomes too rough on other puppies, the others yelp and tend to ignore the puppy. However, you may need to assess your puppy's personality because he may react to the yelping by biting more and even harder. If this happens, you may need to apply a more aggressive approach.



About The Author Shannon Lueck - I have owned dogs for most of my life and can't imagine living without them. I've put together a site with free information about dogs for dog owners. Please visit: " http://www.adogownersdogsite.com/Dog_Obedience_Training_Review.php

Keywords: dog toys, dog beds, dog collars, pet supplies, dog training, dog health

Posted by lucysdoghouse at 10:33 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Dog training can be a grueling process but if done correctly, it can be very rewarding in the end. Whether you have a dog in the city, the suburbs, or the country, a trained dog is always easier to handle, especially when it comes to social situations.

1. Be fair with corrections.

Be sure that your dog comprehends what you want before you correct him for not doing it. Also, let the punishment fit the crime. A correction should not be a release of anger on your dog. Instead, a correction is a way to communicate with your dog, a way to foster in him a clear understanding of his place in your human pack. At its mildest level, a correction can be the absence of praise. Before jerking the leash, remember to ask yourself if you're being fair.

2. Be positive.

As a dog's trainer, you must have the right attitude. Praise that is well timed and appropriate is essential to your dog's learning process. If all that you ever do is say "no!" to your dog, your relationship isn't going to be a very good one. How would you like to work with a boss like that?

Praise is cheap and free - so use alot of it! Use praise when your dog attempts to get it right. Use it more when your dog is successful in his task. Use it when your dog pays attention to you, because that's the first step in the training. It's not necessary to be some gushing goof, but you should let your dog know when you're proud of him.

3. You and your dog are on the same team.

Don't think of training your dog as a you versus your dog endeavor. Instead, think about the two of you being on the same team, albeit in different positions. Just as if you were the quarterback, you call the plays. Winning is a team effort. It's just a matter of your dog learning the plays first, and you're the one to teach him.

As a team, you will need to spend time together. Bring him into your life. Let him sleep in a crate in your bedroom, practice his "sits" in the kitchen. The more opportunities for interaction and practice you have, the faster and more reliably your dog will perform.



About The Author Felix Senhouse is a contributor for http://www.familydogcare.com

Family Dog Care is your complete resource for dog related news and information, covering topics that range from dog training to dog nutrition.

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Posted by lucysdoghouse at 10:32 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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House training older dogs is a more delicate process than with younger dogs. If you are looking to adopt an older dog that was not previously exposed to any house training at a young age, it is going to bring along its bad habits such as chewing, excessive barking, making holes in the yard or “marking” the territory.

Furthermore, you will also experience more difficulties in house training older dogs as they tend to respond and progress much slower to most training methods and commands than younger dogs.

Here are 3 useful tips that can help you in house training older dogs successfully.

* First and foremost, a complete check-up at the vet is necessary in order to eliminate any existing health problems or complications such as urinary tract or flea infections. Older dogs may also experience some form of diarrhea if there is a sudden change from their previous dietary habits. Do not punish him for these "mistakes". Instead be patient and allow your dog a week to adapt to the changes gradually. If conditions did not improve, consult your vet.

* Always establish a routine schedule for eating and drinking for your dog. This helps you to easily monitor your dog's toilet habits and decide when to bring your pet out for a walk every time he or she finishes its meals. Most adult dogs tend to eliminate 30 - 45 minutes after eating or drinking. Learn the signs and watch out for clues of circling and sniffing the floor.

* Older dogs have shorter attention spans therefore more repetitions are needed during the house training process to reinforce the desired habits. Never use violence on them if they make a mess in the house. Scolding the dog is pointless unless you actually see it eliminating indoors. Use a firm voice command "No" and guide the dog to its designated spot. Praise or reward your dog when it relieves itself outdoors.

Therefore, house training an older dog successfully depend a lot on your consistency, discipline and perseverance. Treating the dog with patience and understanding, using the appropriate house training methods are the main ingredients to developing a well behaved adult dog with good toilet habits.

About The Author James Lee is a contributing member at http://www.DogTrainingClassroom.com. For more information on dog training tips, try visiting http://www.dogtrainingclassroom.com/dog-training-tips.html

Keywords: pet meds, dog toys, dog beds, dog collars, pet supplies, dog training, dog bowls

Posted by lucysdoghouse at 10:31 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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There are virtually as many approaches to training a dog as there are dogs to train! It seems as if every day new systems and techniques are announced or older methods are resurrected. Check a bookstore shelf or do a quick internet search and you will be overwhelmed with the number of ways people may advocate training a dog.

Despite the tremendous diversity of methods, almost every successful dog training system is premised on positive reinforcement techniques. The once frequent techniques involving intimidation, humiliation and punishment have long been abandoned in the face of growing proof of their relative ineffectiveness. All of the new, more effective, recommended means of dog training share something else in common: their effectiveness can be enhanced significantly by remembering three simple secrets.

Start Young

We've all been told a thousand times "you can't teach an old dog new tricks." That popular old saying, of course, is not entirely true. Any dog, regardless of age, can learn new things. However, like most old adages, it has been remembered because it contains a kernel of truth. Dogs, like humans, are much more receptive to learning new behaviors when young. The earlier you are able to start training your dog, the more effective the training will be.

Puppies will learn at a much faster clip and do not have ingrained behaviors that must be un-learned. Thus, any training regimen is sure to be more successful when conducted with a puppy for a subject instead of an older dog.

If you weren't able to start training a particular dog when he or she was younger, don't fret. Training is still effective for older animals. However, if you do have the chance, start training early and you'll reap the benefits of increased effectiveness.

Remain Gentle

Dogs are social animals and develop a real attachment to their owners. That attachment, in large measure, is at the heart of successful dog training. A dog who trusts his owner and who sincerely wants to please his companion is far more likely to remain attentive and compliant during the training process.

A failure to act gently jeopardizes the training program by undermining the quality of the dog/owner relationship.

Of course, aggressive behavior also runs contrary to the very foundations of most dog training techniques. Dog training is premised on the notion that positive reinforcement techniques best modify dog behavior. The interjection of inconsistent activity frustrates that process. Furthermore, there are ethical and moral concerns about mistreating an animal, in addition to the practical concerns. By making a commitment to retain gentleness throughout the training process one can insure they are consistently treating their dog appropriately.

A gentle dog owner will find himself with an ally for a trainee rather than a rival. Instead of a battle of the wills, training can become a cooperative exercise. Under those conditions, training tends to take less time and be far more effective.

Emphasize Prevention

Too often, training a dog devolves into a series of constant corrections for behaviors the owner finds unsuitable. This reduces the pleasure found in dog training as well as its overall effectiveness. A strong emphasis on preventing inappropriate behavior reduces the need for correction efforts and can help spur quick progress.

The basic goal of prevention is to intervene before a problem is created instead of simply responding to the problem. Instead of waiting for the dog to make a mistake to correct, the prevention-minded owner will keep close watch to see imminent difficulties and will intervene early to prevent them from arising in the first place.

This technique allows one to avoid spending undue time on correction and to emphasize real positively reinforced training methods, keeping a program on track and accelerating its successes. It also decreases frustration throughout the training process making it more enjoyable for both the dog and the owner.

Although there is a multitude of training strategies form which one can choose, all of them can have their effectiveness increased by adhering to the aforementioned principles. By starting early, remaining gentle and emphasizing prevention, any reasonable method of dog training can garner better results. These three secrets, if always operating in the background, serve to push the effectiveness of any training technique.



Dog Article courtesy of I-Love-Dogs.com

Posted by lucysdoghouse at 04:32 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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