The Lucy's Dog House Blog

We all hate to leave our pets behind if we go on vacation or have to leave home for a few days. However, we can't always take them with us so if you don't have family or friends that are able to take care of them you most likely need a dog kennel.

To find a good kennel ask for recommendations from friends, family, your veterinarian or grooming shops.

You should then visit the kennel and look for these things.

License

Staff - are they friendly, knowledgeable, seem to care about the dogs there?

Sanitation - Are the runs clean? Do they look like they have an effective system? Do they have barriers high enough to prevent male dogs from urinating into adjacent runs?

Facility - Is it in good repair, neat, clean, smell clean and clear of debris?

Exercise area - Do dogs have freedom of movement? It the floor concrete so it can be easily disinfected? How much time do they get outdoors?

Climate - Is there proper temperature control and is ventilation good with no draughts?

Sleeping area - Is there clean, dry and large enough for a dog to stand, stretch out or turn around? Do they have solid dividers between kennels? Is the bedding clean?

Cages and gates - Are they secure and in good repair?

How many dogs in facility - Are there to many?

Food - You may want to bring food that your dog is already eating if they don't have it. You don't want him to get sick from a change in diet.

Water - Is it available at all times, does the water look clean in the dog bowls and are the dog bowls clean?

Veterinarian - Do they have a vet on call? Will they contact your vet if needed?

Find out the cost, drop off time and pick up. How far in advance should you book?

When you do take your dog for his stay take along:

Vaccinations records

Emergency contacts - veterinarian and your numbers.

Pet schedule - also pet medications with instructions.

Take something from home like a blanket or toy.

Food if needed

Usually if a dog is introduced early in life to kennels be doesn't have a problem. Of course all dogs are different and it's hard to predict how they will react. You should start with a weekend to see how he does. Ask the staff how his behavior and appetite were so you can judge how it went. Of course check his general condition and grooming to see how well he was taken care of.

If they do have trouble maybe next time you should look into a bonded pet-sitting service. Maybe you know someone who does pet sitting in your home. Check out your options.

Lastly, ask your veterinarian if your dog needs kennel cough intra-nasal vaccination.



About The Author Sandy Oberreuter has a web site on small dog breeds with articles on popular small dogs, dogs good with children and seniors, breeders, dog diseases, dog day care, hypoallergenic dogs and more.

View their website at: http://www.small-dogbreeds.com

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Posted by lucysdoghouse at 09:06 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Your dog is fat. OK, possibly not.

But there's a very good chance he or she is, and you don't even know it.

Statistics vary, but veterinarians report that as many as 25 - 44% of all dogs are overweight, and that obesity is the number-one canine health disorder. Obesity is defined as weighing over 15% more than the standard accepted weight for the dog's height.

With nearly half of our dogs weighing in on the heavy side, it's no surprise, then, that obesity-related conditions are on the rise within the pet population. These conditions include diabetes mellitus and orthopedic, musculoskeletal, cardiovascular, gastrointestinal, endocrine, respiratory, immune and reproductive disorders. These can be devastating conditions for your dog to live with.

Doctors ascribe the rise in obesity to a combination of the general lack of fussiness of dogs, their natural gorging behavior, and insufficient exercise.

And since dogs don't do their own grocery shopping or prepare their own meals, we must add to this a prevailing ignorance among their owners in providing a nutritious, well-balanced, calorie-controlled diet.

Do you know if your dog is fat or fit? Do you know her daily caloric requirements? Do you know what factors may mitigate those daily caloric requirements?

Did you know regular dog food is packed with sugar and fat to make the toxic crap they put in it palatable?

A healthy dog is ready to eat at any time. Some dogs quite literally can eat while flat on their side and more or less asleep. Therefore, it is pointless to use your dog's begging behavior as any indicator of how much to feed him.

Knowing how many calories he needs and how that translates into food will help keep him trim and healthy. Energy needs for the dog change throughout his life, increasing the more active he becomes, and, as you might surmise, decreasing as the dog reaches his senior years.

Your vet will help you determine if your dog's weight is on target, or if she is headed for fat city, and all diet-related considerations should definitely be discussed with your vet before introducing any major changes into your dog's nutritional sphere. But, before your next office visit, you can do an assessment to determine (albeit imprecisely) your dog's general body condition and weight.

Can the ribs be easily felt with slight fat cover, or are they difficult to feel under moderate or thick fat cover?

From the side view, do you see an abdominal tuck?

Is there thickening at the tail base?

From the overhead view, is there a well-proportioned waist?

Or, from the overhead view, does she have a marked hourglass shape? (an indicator of being underweight)

Or, from the overhead view, is the back slightly or markedly broadened at the waist? (indicators of being moderately to severely overweight)

Is your dog slow to rise or move around?

Is she reluctant to exercise, or does she tire easily with activity?

Individual metabolism, exercise, age, environment and overall health will determine what your dog really needs to remain lean and healthy. Since your dog can only have so many calories every day, it is important to pack lots of nutrition, bulk and appeal into those calories.

Our wildly popular Dog Food SECRETS-- information products can help you step-by-step overcome your nutritional naivete.

Embracing this information doesn't mean you have to prepare every meal with a set of scales on the counter, no. Do it a few times and you can do it forever.

After you determine your dog's caloric needs, the ideal solution to meet those needs is to prepare your dog's food at home, where you can have total control over the caloric and nutritional content.

Our books can help you there, too -- as it includes a collection of easy, healthful, natural and delicious recipes created with your dog's palate and welfare in mind. In fact the Silver and Gold packages include over 200 easy-to-make healthy recipes.



About The Author Andrew Lewis

Discover everything you need to know about http://www.thedogfoodconspiracy.com/dog-food-secrets.php , the 1 element in dog health. Subscribe to http://www.thedogfoodconspiracy.com newsletter to learn more.

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Posted by lucysdoghouse at 09:04 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Of course, we all know that dogs are dogs, not people. However, when it comes to certain behaviors, humans are sometimes offended or embarrassed by their pets!

Some of the things that dogs do may seem ill mannered to humans, but to dogs they’re simply natural behaviors that help them to explore their world, learn about others and establish relationships. Things such as sniffing one another’s private areas, mounting one another and wrestling with other dogs, sometimes accompanied by play biting and growling can seem rather off-putting to humans.

However, since dogs use these behaviors to establish their pecking order with other dogs, it’s usually best to “leave well enough alone.” When humans interfere by stopping their dog from interacting with other dogs in these ways, it can serve to exacerbate the situation, making the more dominant dog feel even more the need to assert his leadership.

For example, when dogs sniff each other at body parts that humans find offensive, it’s because they use their sense of smell to get to know one another. With their strong olfactory abilities, dogs can learn a lot about one another through scent alone. Questions such as male or female?, leader or follower?, and young or old? are all able to be answered by dogs through sniffing.

Mounting one another is another behavior that humans sometimes find offensive, but is natural for dogs. Since dogs are pack animals, they use shows of dominance or submission to establish the pecking order between themselves and others. It can be easier to let the dogs work things out on their own once you understand that the dogs do not intend to procreate (unless there is a female in heat, in which case, keep them separated!) and are not doing it for recreational reasons.

Another thing to understand is that dominant leadership has nothing to do with size or gender in the dog world. There are plenty of little dogs who have more dominant personalities than larger dogs and vice versa. Nothing you can do will change that.

Once dogs have met one another and have done their “dominance dance,” they’ll usually begin playing together. Just like baby lion cubs will play using mannerisms such as stalking and pouncing, so do dogs play using mannerism of biting, wrestling and growling. As long as things are not escalating into a dog fight (which they usually don’t), there’s no need to interfere by separating the dogs.

Of course, if your dog does things to humans, such as greeting them at the door with an offensive sniff, mounting your children or play biting with humans in ways that are far too rough, some obedience training will be required. While it’s fine to allow dogs to be dominant over their dog friends, it is not acceptable for your dog to consider himself dominant over the humans in the household. Implementing some obedience training and building the amount of respect your dog has for family members should alleviate the issue. If you need help, contact a knowledgeable trainer for assistance.

All in all, when it comes to potentially offensive dog behaviors, understanding that a dog is an animal and this is how they communicate can help alleviate embarrassment when these behaviors are displayed.

Article written by Lori Verni

Lori Verni is a freelance writer, Certified Master Trainer and owner of Best Paw Forward Dog Education in Holly Springs, NC. She also proudly brings you all of the free articles on FreeDogTrainingInfo.com, and has a book available: Everything You Need to Know About House Training Puppies & Adult Dogs. The book can be purchased at www.FreeDogTrainingInfo.com

Keywords: dog toys, dog beds, dog collars, pet supplies, dog training, dog health

Posted by lucysdoghouse at 05:53 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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People frequently ask how a Dog Behaviorist and Dog Obedience Trainer relates to dogs and earns their respect and control . . . and especially that of the Dominant Dog. The first part of that answer is simply stated but difficult for many people to internalize and act upon: To relate to a dog, you must first see and treat him fully as a DOG!

Before you can deal with a dog dominance issue at home or in dog obedience training, you must recognize that dog behavior and dog communication are NOT in line with human psychology. After all, your dog is a CANINE (canis familiaris of the Family Canidae), and not homo sapiens. So he thinks like a canine, not like a person. Your dog responds as one might in a wolf pack, not as a human family member. He or she has real emotions, but they are canine emotions, not human emotions, and not to be mistaken as such.

The basic communication system of dogs involves three critical elements --silence, submission, and leadership -- sometimes referred to generally as the dog whisper technique, with elements of wolf pack communication. We will use these elements in this and subsequent dog training articles about solving Dog Dominance problems. You and I need to understand, read, and use your dog’s own communication system for optimal effectiveness in working with him.

Dogs have an inherent Pack Psychology which governs their thinking and actions. In a pack, there is one dominant one, and the rest are all followers. There is one Alpha male and one Alpha female. To relate to a dog from a position of strength, respect, and control, YOU must be the Alpha Leader, the Pack Leader, and you must use pack psychology and pack communication.

Often we see dominant dogs taken home as young pups, because people are amused by their spirited behavior. Actually, they are usually the first puppies chosen, the proverbial Pick of the Litter. However, if this high-spirited nature is not controlled, then things get out of control quickly . . . becoming worse over time . . . until the situation sometimes becomes dangerous. Dominance can lead to violence.

So you might look for a mature dog, such as a Shelter Dog or Rescued Dog. However, looking for a less dominant pet is not so easy in shelters. There a dog’s true nature is difficult to discern without the aid of an experienced person. While in the shelter, the dog rarely has an area or anything that is under the dog’s control, so there is little opportunity to observe possessiveness and dominance problems.

Nor are dogs cooped up in shelters able to burn off excess energy. It’s very hard for an untrained eye to differentiate between an excited “Please take me home” and the more troublesome “I want to control you!” of the hyper-active, dominant canine.

But the dominance problem quickly becomes evident when you go home and relax, for dominance shows up where perceived weakness is present. For example, petting your dog when it is submissive (e.g., sitting or lying down) is appropriate and desirable, but not when it is in an aggressive or dominant stance.

If you display any sign of soft laxity at the wrong time because of your affection, that will be interpreted by your dog as weakness . . . and then, “Katie bar the door!” With dominant types, you simply cannot afford to let down your guard or to make an exception “just this once” because the pup is so cute.

You must establish and maintain firm, consistent control of the Dominant Dog at all times. These eye-catching, spirited animals are highly intelligent and have great potential, but they also are usually very willful, stubborn, born leaders who seek to control you, other animals, and their environment. They want to rule the roost!

You cannot give them an inch . . . or they will take it, and take it, and take it . . . over and over, time and again. These dogs are persistent!

For example, one friend had an Old English Sheepdog puppy, an Alpha Female about eight months old, who had a very bad reaction to a toxic flea dip back in 1976. As the puppy started to tremor, the frightened owners lifted their darling onto the foot of the bed, both for her comfort and to ease their own backs as they nursed her.

MISTAKE! That one incident led that puppy and her litter-mate to sneak onto the bed whenever possible . . . a pattern the owners never succeeded in terminating for the rest of the dogs’ lives!

Too many owners just coddle the two-and-three month old “babies” and think that puppy training can start later. NO! The intelligent, spirited ones, especially, must be “trained” from day one with consistency, with You clearly as the Master!

Because of their high intelligence, they are ready much earlier than others for more formal types of training, too. Training helps remove boredom and release energy, while giving the prideful animal a proper goal for which to strive, and achievement about which to strut with regal, dignified, proud bearing and the clear satisfaction of pleasing.

DON’T MOVE WITH THEM, YOU LOSE THEM!

I, too, have had a trying personal experience with an aggressive Alpha Pup. I brought home a beautiful Rescued Dog, an eight-week-old retriever puppy from the Humane Society. She turned out to be the most willful and stubborn dog I have ever seen, striving for dominance in all things! There is no way she would have lasted in a “normal” home. However, because of my sheer determination with consistent, proper training, she is becoming a loving, playful, and obedient sweetheart who, without loss of any spunk or pride, nevertheless submits to my command by a mere glance. I am her undisputed Pack Leader.

Still, it wasn’t easy to get her to that state. In great frustration, I eagerly sought the advice of two other trainers with vast puppy experience. So I say to beleaguered Owners of aggressive, dominant puppies and dogs, “Don’t be embarrassed. This can happen to anyone! Never be ashamed to ask for help from a Dog Trainer.” (Just make sure they really understand pack psychology.)

If you have a dog dominance problem, there IS a specific training technique that will work for you, and it centers on FOCUS. It applies the communication system of “silence, submission, and leadership” and is a dog training technique which is effective with most dog dominance issues. [It’s much more effective and pleasant than hitting and yelling!]

So get help with control of the dog dominance behavior, and restore a right relationship with your pet, and peace and harmony in your home!

PawPersuasion © Copyright 2006.



About The Author Expert Author RENA MURRAY is a no-nonsense Dog Obedience Trainer & Dog Behaviorist who publishes Articles, free email Newsletter "PAW PERSUASION POINTERS" & Blog to help you better select, communicate with, train & control your dog. Catering to serious dog trainers & dog lovers alike, Rena also provides Dog Products & Dog Behavior Consultations through http://www.pawpersuasion.com

Keywords: pet meds, dog toys, dog beds, dog collars, pet supplies, dog training, dog bowls

Posted by lucysdoghouse at 11:25 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Humans play solitaire to keep themselves occupied when they’re alone. Dogs chew. It’s what they do. Actually, chewing is much more important to dogs than solitaire is to humans. Dogs need to chew on things to maintain healthy teeth and gums and good jaw strength. Solitaire will do nothing for your dental hygiene.

Puppies need to chew even more when they are teething (in fact, there are special chew toys that can be dampened and frozen to provide relief for painful gums during this process). So chewing isn’t a problem in itself, but destructive chewing is. Dogs need to learn what they can and cannot chew on, and they are quite capable of doing so when properly taught. Here are four steps every dog owner should take to encourage “constructive chewing.”

1. Prevent. As always the best cure, but dog owners should always dog proof their home, especially with puppies. They can be very creative with what they chew. Anything not removable that has been or is likely to be targeted can be sprayed with a deterrent, such as Bitter Apple.

2. Interrupt. Whenever you are there with your dog, it is important that you actively teach them commands for “leave it” or “drop.” These are given whenever you see them taking something into their jaws that should not be in there. You may have to orchestrate this training process by adding some of the items that you removed in step 1. But that’s what training is all about - setting up safe scenarios in which you can help them differentiate between appropriate and inappropriate behavior. These commands will also work well when you are out with your dog and they want to pick up something dangerous or just foul.

3. Redirect. Here’s where you start teaching your friend which toys belong to them, to chew to pieces if they like (and they will). Immediately after removing the inappropriate item from their clutches, replace it with an appropriate toy. It will take some time to really zero in on a few of your dog’s most favorite things. But as you try lots of different toys to encourage constructive chewing, keep in mind that the best ones are those designed to promote healthy teeth and gums such as dental chew ropes. Also, try to find what are called “active toys,” which give your dog something to do for an extended period of time. For example, “Kong” balls and rubber toys can be stuffed with food, such as peanut butter or whatever they go for. Often dogs are inactive when they are alone because they’re missing you.

5. Praise. The final step is simple but not one to forget.

The good news is that most dogs will grow out of this phase somewhat at the same time as they figure out what’s chewable and what’s not. If your dog’s chewing problem continues, however, it is likely to be an expression of nervous energy (the same goes for excessive licking, of themselves and others). The number one cause of nervous energy for dogs is lack of exercise.

A brisk 15-minute walk is simply not enough for many dogs, barely a warm-up for a Border Collie, and it is important to understand that exercise is different from a play session or outing to the park.

The mistake that a lot of dog owners make, which is an unfortunate function of their busy schedules, is that they pack in two high intensity (15-20 minute) fetch sessions at the beginning and end of the day. True, this is much better than nothing, but the fact that the dog goes more or less from sleeping to sprinting, then from lying around all day to sprinting again, can cause extra wear and tear on the joints and possibly early arthritis. Like humans, a dog benefits from a decent warm-up and warm-down, and busy owners should do their best to sneak in some longer, less intense exercise sessions.

All the best with it, and don’t chew out your dog in the meantime.



About The Author Martin Olliver is a proud member of the Kingdom of Pets team (http://www.kingdomofpets.com). For more great articles on chewing and other dog habits, visit: http://kingdomofpets.com/dogobediencetraining/articles/dog_training_solutions.php

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Posted by lucysdoghouse at 11:25 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Dogs can be fun traveling companions, and some people are lucky enough to have friends and family who welcome their furry friend. The majority of dogs love to go on car rides, but there are some who are very afraid and still others who experience motion sickness.

Socialization is the key with fear of riding in the car. You can tell the difference between those who are motion sick and those who are afraid, because the frightened ones will begin to appear anxious before the car even starts to move. Panting, salivating, refusal to get in, scratching at the door and other symptoms can alert you that it’s a socialization problem.

Begin by working with your dog on basic obedience commands, especially the “heel” (walk at my side), “sit” and “down.” Then you’ll be able to use the commands to help your dog to feel more comfortable during the car training exercises.

Next, you’ll need to use lots of patience. For some dogs it can take one day of practice, others may require weeks. With your car doors open (use the back seat if possible), practice simply “heeling” your dog in one door and out the other. Praise lavishly when it’s accomplished. Once your dog is doing this with no problem, work on getting into the car and just sitting there together for a minute or two. If your dog is acting afraid, be sure not to pet him… rather than feeling soothed, your pet will feel as if you’re praising him for being anxious. Instead, tell your dog “no,” and use an obedience command such as “sit” or “down,” followed by praise.

Once your dog is sitting in the car with no problem, gradually increase the exercise so you’re shutting the doors, then turning the car on but not moving, then driving only one block, etc. Use lots of praise when your dog is trying, and remember not to inadvertently reinforce fears.

Another tip is to make sure you bring your dog to “fun” places sometimes, so he doesn’t think he’s always going to the vet or groomer when he goes in the car. Some suggestions include the pet store, the bank drive-thru (they often give a dog treat), a stroll downtown, the park or even a trip to your vet or groomer… but not to have anything done… just to get petted and have a treat.

If your dog’s problem seems to be motion sickness rather than fear, you should still do the above exercises, and also be sure not to feed or water your dog for 2 hours before your trip. Having your dog sit on the floor of the car rather than up on the seat can sometimes help, and be sure to keep a window open a little for fresh air. If you have a very long road trip planned, and you’ve already done the training exercises, you may want to speak with your veterinarian about whether medication would be appropriate.

Article written by Lori Verni

Lori Verni is a freelance writer, Certified Master Trainer and owner of Best Paw Forward Dog Education in Holly Springs, NC. She also proudly brings you all of the free articles on FreeDogTrainingInfo.com, and has a book available: Everything You Need to Know About House Training Puppies & Adult Dogs. The book can be purchased at www.FreeDogTrainingInfo.com

Keywords: dog toys, dog beds, dog collars, pet supplies, dog training, dog health

Posted by lucysdoghouse at 11:24 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Chewing is an issue which occurs most often with puppies, but sometimes adult dogs have this problem too.

Puppies tend to explore the world with their mouths. A shoe with an interesting odor?… Let’s see what it tastes like! However, while chewing and exploring are normal for puppies, humans should not simply accept the behavior.

Whenever you catch your puppy chewing something, you must tell him “No”, and replace the item with an appropriate chew toy. Follow with lavish praise. Be sure to keep dog toys available at all times, and provide an interesting variety. It can also help to rotate your dog toys so he doesn’t become bored with them.

Adult dogs with chewing problems sometimes simply never learned that chewing things is wrong. Other times it can be caused by owners who have inadvertently taught the dog that chewing household items is okay!

For example, if your dog chews a shoe and you decide to let him keep it, your dog may think that all items in your home with that smell (including your new shoes) are fair game. Therefore, be sure to only give your pet toys that are intended for a dog. Never give old slippers, the kids’ stuffed animals, etc.

If your dog or puppy is having chewing problems only when you’re not home, the problem could be separation anxiety. This type of chewing is done out of nervousness about being home alone. Often, the damage is done to doors, furniture, or window treatments. Read an additional article about separation anxiety here.

It’s very important that you don’t correct your dog or puppy for chewing unless you caught him in the act. Correction after the fact can lead to much more serious behavior problems.

No matter which reason your dog or puppy is chewing, working on some dog obedience training can help immensely. For more serious problems you may need to work with an educated dog trainer. Between obedience, supervision, and confining your dog in a crate when you’re not at home, you can have a trustworthy pet who only chews his toys!

This article is written by Lori Verni

Lori Verni is a freelance writer, Certified Master Trainer and owner of Best Paw Forward Dog Education in Holly Springs, NC. She also proudly brings you all of the free articles on FreeDogTrainingInfo.com, and has a book available: Everything You Need to Know About House Training Puppies & Adult Dogs. The book can be purchased at www.FreeDogTrainingInfo.com

Keywords: dog toys, dog beds, dog collars, pet supplies

Posted by lucysdoghouse at 05:31 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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One of the key principles of dog training is the principle of “conditioned response.” The idea is that you can set up your dog’s environment in such a way that it learns to abandon its destructive behavior through its own mistakes rather than by your instruction. Below are two common examples of problem dog behaviors and how the princple of "conditioned response" can be used to resolve them.

1. My dog is digging up my yard. How can I stop this destructive behavior? First, you must purchase some chicken wire from your local hardware store and some styptic powder from you local pet store. Before you begin, you must observe your dog’s favorite digging spots and pinpoint them in your mind. Then, you must remove your dog from the yard, and you must not allow it to watch you as you set up its environment. Cut about a 4 by 4 foot section of chicken wire and plant it under the dirt in all the locations where you dog likes to dig. Once you’re finished, release your dog and wait for the conditioned response. More than likely, your dog will go back to the locations where it dug before and proceed to dig as usual. Except now, it’s going to learn a novel lesson. Namely, that digging is going to cause it serious discomfort and pain. Once your dog associates the condition (digging) with the negative response (pain) it will automatically stop its destructive digging habit. There is, however, one drawback to this technique. If you have an aggressive digger, then you should monitor your dog for any cuts or bruises. That’s where the styptic powder comes in. If you notice a cut in your dog’s paws, gently pour the styptic powder on the cut and allow it to cauterize the bleeding. Within a matter of days, you can conditon your dog to abandon its destructive digging habit by using the principle of "conditioned response."

2. My dog chews my furniture, my shoes, and my valuable belongings. What can I do to end this destructive behavior? Go to your local pet store, and purchase a spray bottle of bitter apple. Remove your dog from your house and do not allow it to see you set up its environment. Spray your valuables (i.e. furniture, shoes, and socks) with bitter apple and place them in locations that your dog can easily access. Then allow it to come in and let the trap do the rest. As usual, your dog will go back to its old habit and start to chew its favorite shoe or furniture. But now, it’s going to get a bitter surprise. Your dog will associate the condition (chewing) with the negative response (bad taste) and it will stop its destructive chewing habit. It's important to remember, however, that all dogs need to chew, so you must repeat this process a second time. Now, you must place your dog’s favorite chew toys next to the items that were sprayed with bitter apple. This time, your dog will be reconditioned to chew its own toys rather than your valuable possessions. Thus, by conditioning your dog, you can positively reinforce a good habit (chewing designated toys) over an undesirable one (chewing your valuable possessions). As you can see, by applying the principle of “conditioned response” you can teach your dog exactly what you want without ever getting frustrated with the training process.

About The Author

Armen T. Ghazarians offers advice and articles for those interested in training their dogs like the professionals. His blog http://www.newdogtrainingsecrets.com

Keywords: pet meds, dog toys, dog beds, dog collars, pet supplies, dog training, dog bowls

Posted by lucysdoghouse at 05:33 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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On a recent episode of “America’s Funniest Home Videos,” (AFV) one of the top three submissions for the $10,000 prize was a video of the “aftermath” of destruction done to a home by the family’s pet dog. This destructive dog had torn the door off an end table, ripped the frame completely off a doorway, destroyed a patio door screen and frame, shredded carpeting, broken glassware, and had literally “eaten” a three foot by four foot hole in the wall – destroying sheetrock, insulation, and framing in the process. I was horrified and appalled as I watched the video and listened to the mixture of giggles and gasps from the viewing audience. It was as if the poor, unsuspecting family shrugged their shoulders and said “Bad Dog, Bad Dog, Whatcha Gonna Do?”

The more appropriate question, however, is “My dog, my dog, WHY do you do what you do?” The answer to that question is not a simple one. Entire books have been written concerning “bad dog behavior.” And the truth is that every dog is different, and therefore, there is no “pat answer” for every situation. However, a basic understanding of “Who dogs are, and How they behave” will lead us to some appropriate suggestions on how to handle difficult and domineering dogs. You can find this article, along with “Bad Dog, Bad Dog” Part 2, in the Dog Articles Feature at K-9 Outfitters, A Division of Damascus Road Enterprises. But before we proceed, if you suffer from “bad dog syndrome” with your family pet, make sure there isn’t an underlying medical condition. Take your dog to the vet, explain your problem, and ensure he/she is healthy, and doesn’t suffer from dental, intestinal, digestion, parasitic, or other problems. Once you find that your dog is healthy, the following information should prove helpful.

Dogs are, by nature, pack animals. Pack animal behavior is instinctive from before dogs were domesticated and lived in the wild. Every pack has a hierarchy, and every animal in the pack has duties, responsibilities, and expectations. Since your dog doesn’t live in the wild, he/she assumes you, your family, and other household pets make up the “pack.” Many times, “bad dog behavior” is a result of confusion over “Alpha Dog Status” or "Alpha Dog Mentality." You must establish that you are the “Alpha” dog in the pack. You must also establish that other family members, to include the children, all rank higher in the pack than your dog does. There are many ways to effectively put your dog in his proper pack ranking. Here are a few suggestions, or rules, for handling domineering dogs, and establishing pack rankings:

1. When you enter the house, make sure your dog enters last, even if you must put her on a leash. You’ll find great leashes, harnesses, collars and leads at K-9 Oufitters, A Division of Damascus Road Enterprises. http://www.Damascus-Road-Enterprises.com

2. Alpha dogs want the run of the entire house. Make sure certain areas of the home are out of bounds for the dog. That may include certain bedrooms, the laundry room, bathrooms, or the den. This helps the dog know you are master of the house, not him.

3. Alpha dogs occupy high traffic areas, like hallways and entryways. Don’t step over or go around the dog, nudge the dog and tell her to move out of your way, and make sure she does so. This lets her know who owns the space and who is in charge.

4. Don’t allow your dog to DEMAND your attention. Dogs usually do this by climbing on your lap, or by nudging your hand or arm. Make the dog sit, lie down, etc., and then give lavish praise and attention. Remember, you control when you give your dog attention, affection, and praise.

5. Exercise control over your dog’s possessions. Take away all her toys, then give her a command, and when she obeys, give her the toy as a treat. After she plays with it for awhile, take it away again.

6. When you come home, make your dog greet you first. Ignore him until he does. He must be submissive to you, not the other way around.

7. Establish dog eating times. In the pack, the Alpha dog always eats first, and then the other dogs eat. Make sure the family eats first, followed by the dog. If you must feed the dog first, pretend to eat something first, then feed your dog. Leave the dog’s food out for 10-15 minutes, then take it up, whether the dog is finished or not. She will learn quickly to eat when fed.

8. Always stroke (pet) your dog around the head, neck, and shoulders. These are vulnerable areas for the dog, and shows that you are superior. Be careful not to stroke your dog around the chest, because this puts him in the dominating position and undermines your authority as alpha dog.

9. Don’t allow your dog to sleep in your bed! I know that’s a tough one for some folks, but believe me, it’s best for all concerned. The best thing to do is provide the dog with her own cage, crate, or bed. Put it in your bedroom if that helps you, but do it. Dogs “Kennel” by nature. They like a safe, snug place they can call their own. You can find a wide variety of kennels, cages, crates, and beds at K-9 Outfitters, A Division of Damascus Road Enterprises. http://www.Damascus-Road-Enterprises.com

Your dog is your pet. Ultimately, all he/she really wants is your love and affection (i.e. time together). Hopefully, these ideas and suggestions, along with a better understanding of who your dog is and the role he plays in the family relationship, will soon move you from saying “Bad Dog, Bad Dog, Whatcha Gonna Do?” to saying, “Good Dog, Good Dog, Oh How I Love You!” By the way, the “Destructive Dog” video did not win a prize on AFV, although I’m sure the family could have used the money for repairs. Following our guidelines would prove a lot less expensive and would make for a much more harmonious family and pet relationship. You can find all the AWESOME products you need for training and spoiling your special dog at K-9 Outfitters, a Division of Damascus Road Enterprises. www.Damascus-Road-Enterprises.com.

About The Author

Danny Presswood is a retired US Army Combat (Airborne) Chaplain. He and his wife Cheri live in the wooded Ozarks hills of SW MO, where he can be reached at BlessedByCalvary@aol.com or (417) 461-0800. Presently working on his Doctorate, Danny writes the Dog Articles Feature K-9 Outfitters, A Division of Damascus Road Enterprises http://www.Damascus-Road-Enterprises.com K-9 Outfitters offers a plethora of AWESOME discount, luxury, unique, and Handmade in the USA Online Dog Supplies.

Keywords: pet meds, dog toys, dog beds, dog collars, pet supplies, dog training, dog bowls

Posted by lucysdoghouse at 01:01 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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Wonder what it was like for pets back in prehistoric times? We're sure pets stole the buffalo hide exactly the same way they steal your pillow now. Show your pet what a softie you are. Give him or her Essential Elements every day.

What Is In It? A high potency, quality nutritional supplement of vitamins, minerals and amino acids in a base of Alfalfa, Watercress, Parsley, Rice and Lecithin. Contains No preservatives, yeast, sugar, starch, salt, artificial flavors or colors, solvents or pesticides. Two Capsules Contain: Vitamin A (Fish Oil) 10,000 I.U. Vitamin A (Beta Carotene) 5,000 I.U. Vitamin D (Fish Liver Oil) 400 I.U. Vitamin E (d-Alpha Tocopheryl) 150 I.U. Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) 250 mg. Vitamin B-1 (Thiamine HC) 100 mg. Vitamin B-2 (Riboflavin) 100 mg. Vitamin B-6 (Pyridoxine HCI) 100 mg. Vitamin B-12 (Cyanocobalamin) 100 mcg. Niacinamide 100 mg. Pantothenic Acid 100 mg. Folic Acid 400 mcg. Choline 100 mg. Inositol 100 mg. P.A.B.A. (Para-Amino-Benzoic-Acid) 100 mg. Biotin 100 mcg. Bioflavonoids (Citrus) 25 mg. Hesperidin (Citrus) 5 mg. Rutin 25 mg. Calcium (Citrate Chelate) 50 mg. Phosphorous (Bone Meal) 20 mg. Magnesium (Citrate Chelate) 7.2 mg. Potassium (Citrate Chelate) 10 mg. Iron (Ferrous Fumarate) 18 mg. Manganese (Citrate Chelate) 6.1 mg. Zinc (Citrate Chelate) 15 mg. Iodine (Kelp) 150 mcg. Copper (Citrate Chelate) 0.25 mg. Glutamic Acid 25 mg. Betaine HCI 25 mg. Chlorophyll 2 mg. Selenium (Amino Acid Chelate) 25 mcg. Chromium (Amino Acid Chelate) 25 mcg. Stearic Acid, Magnesium Stearate, Food Glaze.

How To Use It Give orally or open and mix contents into meals or liquids. Best to divide daily dose into two feedings for optimum results. Cats & Small Animals 1/2 to 1 capsule per day Medium or Large Dogs 1 to 2 capsules per day Horses & Large Animals 2 capsules per day

 

Keywords: pet meds, dog supplements, pet supplies, pet stores, dog health

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So you're thinking about venturing out on your next trip with Fido? Sounds like a fun idea, but unless you're well prepared, you may end up wishing you had left him at home.

But don't get discouraged; traveling with pets is becoming as commonplace as traveling with children. In a sense, they really are our children. We feed them, clean up after them, groom them, praise them, and love them… why shouldn't we take them along?

Problem is, some folks think just letting the family dog jump in the back seat is all it takes. Never mind securing that loved one in a car seat or harness like we do Junior. Why not? Okay, I'll ask it again… why not?

In case of a sudden stop or crash, what happens? Oops. Or big OOPS, depending on the size of your pooch. He could cause a serious injury or even death to you or one of your passengers if he becomes a projectile. Why take the risk?

Making the best of pet travel begins with planning. You must first think about what it is you're doing, where you're going, how you're going to get there, what you need… you know, like you do when you take a trip by yourself or with friends or family. Don't exclude your pet's needs and essentials just because… what, he's a pet?

What vitamins or meds will he need? What about food, treats and water? Yes, it's always a good idea to have a supply of good, cold water with you. Sometimes you just can't just find water anywhere when you need to stop.

Do you have a car seat for the pet to see out (mainly for smaller pets) or a harness or seat belt? What about emergency contacts like vet phone numbers or a pet hospital near where you are traveling? In case you become separated, did you remember his ID tag? How else will anyone know to whom your four-legged child belongs? A travel ID tag is also becoming more popular that lists the contact information of where you're planning to stay when you get to your destination or a cell phone number that could easily track you down in the event you get separated from your pet.

One of the most comforting things a pet can have with him is something familiar like a favorite toy or blanket. Remember how Junior is? By the way, did you remember his, too?

How about a portable exercise pen? Aunt Sally says she loves your canine, but does she really want him running loose all over her house? That exercise pen can be assembled in no time, and you sure won't have to keep your eye on Aunt Sally's glass figurine collection every second of the day.

And when you and your canine are ready to bed down for the night, are you just going to let him sleep where he finally drops? Is that where Junior will end up for the night? I don't think so. That's right, don't forget that pets like to sleep comfortably, too, and that portable dog bed sure feels a little more like home.

There's another thing you should remember. And that's all you have to do, just remember it. And that is… reassurance. Your pet knows you better than anyone else. Give him the reassurance that you're there for him and that you're going to have a good time together. He knows your voice. You're the one he trusts. So give him confidence in this new traveling environment. Provide him with the things he needs to make his trip as safe and enjoyable as yours, and I'm sure you will have many fun excursions together for years to come. Happy travels!



About The Author Tom James is founder and president of PetTravelCenter.com, an Internet resource website and online community serving the pet travel industry and pet lovers everywhere. Information about pet-friendly accommodations and destinations, RV parks, dog parks and campgrounds, tips for traveling with pets using various modes of transportation, recreational activities with pets, articles by pet experts, a photo gallery to post images of one’s pet travels, and special features, including a monthly newsletter for PTC Club members, are included in the site. In the fall of 2006, PetTravelCenter.com will roll out an online store of product solutions to make the pet travel experience fun and easy. Visit online at . http://www.PetTravelCenter.com

keywords: dog beds, dog health, dog carriers, dog collars, dog toys

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We accessorize many things. Cellphones, computers, homes, cars and PDAs are just some of the things that can be accessorized. Some people use accessories to emphasize the beauty of a thing; others use accessories to make things easier to use; still others use accessories to protect an item against harmful elements.

Accessories are not only limited to objects; in fact, there are accessories for living things, dogs for instance. There are a variety of dog accessories available -- ranging from accessories to enhance the appearance of a dog, accessories for pampering dogs and accessories that can both help dog and its owner.

If you're a dog lover, shopping for dog accessories is an important aspect of taking care of your pet. In fact, many dog lovers experience a great deal of satisfaction shopping for their beloved pets in the same way they do when shopping for their loved ones.

With a plethora of dog accessories in the market today, finding and choosing the best dog accessories for your pet can be a bit of a challenge. So here are some shopping tips to keep in mind when you're looking into buying dog accessories for your pooch.

Tip #1: When shopping for a dog collar...

Dog collars range from plain to fancy. However, more than the look of the dog collar, it's important that you choose one that properly fits your dog. The perfect dog collar for your dog is one wherein the space between your dog's neck and the collar is about two fingers wide. Never buy a dog collar based on how it looks. How a dog collar fits your dog should be your top priority.

Tip #2: When shopping for a dog leash...

Many types of dog leashes are available in the market. However, when shopping for a leash for your dog, choose the one that is appropriate to the size of your dog. If you have a big dog, get a dog leash that is wide and strong enough to hold him. In the same manner, don't get a big leash if you have a small dog. When choosing a dog leash, it's always best to go with one that costs a bit higher. Cheap dog leashes usually are of cheap quality.

Tip #3: When shopping for food and water bowls...

Choose food and water bowls that won't easily tip over. If you are considering buying a watering system that gives dogs a supply of drinking water for a longer period of time, choose a size that is appropriate for your dog. Water should always be fresh and clean so make sure that your dog can consume fairly quickly the water in the watering system you are about to purchase.

Tip #4: When shopping for dog toys...

Dogs are playful animals. When shopping for dog toys, consider those that your dog can gnash, chew or bite. Instead of chewing on slippers and shoes, these particular dog toys will encourage your dog to be more behaved. When choosing dog toys for your dog, consider those that are just the right size for him. Avoid dog toys that are too small; your dog may accidentally swallow small dog toys and choke. On the other hand, don't get a dog toy that is too large for your pet that he is unable to lift it.

Tip #5: When shopping for doghouses...

Your dog needs to have his own place outside of your home. A doghouse will protect your pet from the elements. Thus, when shopping for a doghouse, choose the one that is appropriate for your dog's size. The doghouse should be big enough to protect your dog from the harsh rays of the sun, rain and snow as well as be comfortable enough for your dog to live in if you ever leave your dog alone for long periods of time.



About The Author Shannon Lueck

I have owned dogs for most of my life and can't imagine living without them. I've put together a site with free information about dogs for dog owners. Please visit: http://www.adogownersdogsite.com/Guidelines_for_Choosing_the_Right_Dog_Toys.php

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